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THE SPATIAL ANALYSIS OF AN EXTREME WAVE IN A MODEL BASIN

机译:模型盆地中极值波的空间分析。

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摘要

As a pilot study into the understanding of the occurrence of extreme waves, the spatial development of an extreme wave (Ac/Hs=1.59) in a model basin was investigated. This wave occurred in a wave spectrum that was not extremely steep and non-linear. It is observed that the extreme wave develops in less than half the wavelength from a relatively normal wave into an extreme crest. The wave crest stays high and constant over a large distance (almost 75m). Linear dispersion is not able to predict the wave propagation towards the observed extreme wave crest. Second order theory improves the prediction of the crest amplitude, but not enough. The crest amplitude is still underestimated. This is confirmed by the plots of the probability of extremes. The linear Rayleigh distribution underestimates the crest amplitudes. The second order distribution follows the measurements much better, but also in this case typically the highest 10 crests in a 3 hours storm are underestimated.
机译:作为对极端波发生的理解的初步研究,研究了模型盆地中极端波(Ac / Hs = 1.59)的空间发展。该波发生在不是非常陡峭和非线性的波谱中。可以观察到,从相对正常的波到极端波峰,极端波在不到波长的一半处发展。波峰在很长的距离(约75m)内保持较高且恒定。线性色散不能预测波向观察到的极端波峰传播。二阶理论改善了波峰幅度的预测,但还不够。波峰幅度仍被低估。这由极值概率图证实。线性瑞利分布低估了波峰振幅。二阶分布更好地遵循了测量,但在这种情况下,通常会低估3小时风暴中最高的10个波峰。

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