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CHANGES OF CROSS-SHORE PROFILES IN SANDY BEACHES

机译:沙质海滩中跨岸剖面的变化

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The coastal zone management has to be generally in harmony with protections, environments and utilizations of coast areas. Changes of cross-shore profiles in sandy beaches will have considerable influence over the coastal zone management in particular. The relation among the shoreline, the long-shore bar and the stable point of cross-shore profiles is discussed by field data in Japan coast and the site plan of offshore breakwater, artificial reef, etc. is proposed in this paper. Cross-shore profiles of sandy beaches are changed by factors of incident wave, water depth, near-shore current, beach material, etc. The data of waves, tides, beach materials, bottom sounding charts surveyed in fields for the past few years was used to investigate cross-shore profiles of sandy beaches along coasts of the Sea of Pacific, the Sea of Okhotsk and the Sea of Japan in Hokkaido of Japan. Results are as follows; 1. A stable point where the sediment transport was not moved remarkably on the bottom slope existed on cross-shore profiles obtained by overlapping sounding charts of every season and year. 2. The sediment transport was mainly moving between the shoreline and the stable point. 3. The sand bar arising between the shoreline and the stable point was influenced by the wave reflection from sandy beaches. 4. On-offshore movements of the sand bar were classified by advancing or retreating of the shoreline. 5. The water depth of the sand bar crest was in proportion to the water depth of trough on-shore side of the sand bar. 6. The sand bar was closely related to the position of the shoreline and the stable point. 7. The sand bar was moved for the shore by constructing the offshore breakwater for accretion. 8. It is good to construct the artificial reef on the position of sand bar, and set up harbor or fishing port entrances off the coast of the stable point.
机译:沿海地区的管理通常必须与沿海地区的保护,环境和利用相协调。沙滩中跨岸剖面的变化将对沿海地区的管理产生重大影响。利用日本海岸的野外资料讨论了海岸线,长岸坝和跨岸剖面稳定点之间的关系,并提出了海上防波堤,人工礁石等的选址方案。沙滩的跨岸剖面受入射波,水深,近岸海流,海滩物质等因素的影响而变化。过去几年中在田间调查的波浪,潮汐,海滩物质,底部测深图的数据为用于调查沿日本北海道的太平洋海,鄂霍次克海和日本海沿岸的沙滩的跨岸剖面。结果如下; 1.通过重叠每个季节和年份的测深图获得的跨岸剖面上存在一个沉积物在底坡上没有明显移动的稳定点。 2.泥沙输送主要在海岸线和稳定点之间移动。 3.海岸线和稳定点之间出现的沙洲受到沙滩波反射的影响。 4.沙洲的海上移动通过海岸线的前进或后退进行分类。 5.沙洲顶的水深与沙洲岸上槽的水深成正比。 6.沙洲与海岸线的位置和稳定点密切相关。 7.通过建造用于增生的近海防波堤,将沙洲移至岸上。 8.最好在沙洲的位置上建造人工鱼礁,并在稳定点海岸附近设置港口或渔港入口。

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