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Identifying BreakingWaves from Measured Time Traces

机译:从测量的时间迹线识别断裂电波

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The present paper addresses the prediction of wave breaking from measuredtime-histories of the free surface profile. The Double Fourier velocitypotential model of Baldock and Swan (1994) is used to study timehistoriesobtained in a wave basin that contain large wave events. Themodel can recreate the surface elevation in space using a single timehistoryand the results are used to study geometrical properties of thewaves in the spatial domain. Wave breaking is detected by using the freesurface values of the dynamic breaking criterion proposed by Barthelemyet al. (2018). The evolution of the Bx parameter is obtained from the experimentalmeasurements directly and it is shown to separate steep wavesfrom breaking events.
机译:本文解决了从测量的波浪断裂的预测自由表面轮廓的时间历史。双傅里叶速度Baldock和Swan(1994)的潜在模型用于研究时间漏洞在含有大波动事件的波浪盆中获得。这模型可以使用单个时腔重新创建空间的表面高度结果用于研究几何特性在空间域中的波浪。通过使用自由来检测波破碎Barthelemy提出的动态破坏标准的表面值等等。 (2018)。 BX参数的演变是从实验获得的直接测量,显示为分开陡峭的波浪从破坏事件。

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