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UV fluorescence excitation spectroscopy as a non-invasive predictor of epidermal proliferation and clinical performance of cosmetic formulations

机译:紫外荧光激发光谱作为表皮增生和化妆品配方临床表现的非侵入性预测因子

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摘要

The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin and is composed of cells primarily containing keratin. It consists of about ten layers of living cells (keratinocytes) and ten layers of dead cells (corneocytes). These cells are continually shed from the outside and replaced from the inside in a process called desquamation which is controlled by two biological events -proliferation and differentiation. One method to non-invasively study biological changes in the skin is using fluorescence excitation spectroscopy. Several characteristic excitation-emission peaks occur in skin that have been related to the epidermal and dermal composition. The magnitude of the peak that occurs at 295nm excitation (F295) has been linked to changes in skin proliferation, cell turnover, epidermal thickening, and skin aging. We hypothesize that changes in this fluorescent signal could be used to assess the potential activity of cosmetic anti-aging compounds to deliver a benefit to skin. Previous work with retinol and glycolic acid, two commonly used actives that effect epidermal proliferation and exfoliation, has demonstrated an increase in F295 (attributed to tryptophan excitation fluorescence). In this study we present the results of a placebo controlled study that aims to correlate changes in F295 with biological performance (epidermal thickening and Ki67 expression).
机译:表皮是皮肤的最外层,由主要包含角蛋白的细胞组成。它由大约十层活细胞(角质形成细胞)和十层死细胞(角质形成细胞)组成。这些细胞不断地从外部脱落,并在内部被称为脱皮的过程中被置换,该过程由两个生物学事件-增殖和分化控制。一种非侵入性研究皮肤生物学变化的方法是使用荧光激发光谱。皮肤中出现了几个特征性的激发-发射峰,这些峰与表皮和真皮成分有关。在295nm激发(F295)处出现的峰的大小与皮肤增殖,细胞更新,表皮增厚和皮肤老化的变化有关。我们假设该荧光信号的变化可用于评估化妆品抗衰老化合物为皮肤带来益处的潜在活性。先前与视黄醇和乙醇酸(影响表皮增生和剥脱的两种常用活性物质)的先前工作已证明F295的增加(归因于色氨酸激发荧光)。在这项研究中,我们提出了一项安慰剂对照研究的结果,该研究旨在使F295的变化与生物学性能(表皮增厚和Ki67表达)相关。

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