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The lineaments of personality: 'Esquire' and the problem of the male consumer.

机译：人格特征：“绅士”和男性消费者的问题。

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摘要

The male consumer has proven problematic for historians of consumer culture and gender. By approaching consumption as the expression or by-product of gender identity, historians and other commentators on gender fail to account for consumer culture as an important site where difference is itself constituted through the goods we purchase, the items we desire and the worlds we imagine. To this end, the male consumer becomes problematic when prevailing historiographic models construct him solely as a rational, goal-oriented purchaser of goods or as an amoral libertine who rejects responsibility for fleeting pleasures. Both approaches are untenable since they rely upon a problematic rhetoric of gender essentialism. What I argue for instead is an approach that places consumption within the unsettled discursive practice of gender. In this sense, the problem of the male consumer speaks in part to a larger issue in historiography, namely how we historicize pleasure and desire. My work on Esquire in the period from 1945-1965 attempts to address this gap by examining the role of cultural intermediaries in developing a discourse on socially legitimate forms of consumption.;Against the background of the misogynistic "Masculinity Crisis" rhetoric, the postwar mass culture debates and a nascent counterculture, Esquire transformed itself from a crude men's magazine to one of America's premier periodicals. Between 1956 and 1963, Esquire published work by such distinguished figures as Richard Rovere, Arthur Schlesinger, Jr., Norman Mailer, Saul Bellow, Dwight Macdonald, Paul Goodman, Diana Trilling, Terry Southern, and Nat Hentoff. During this same period, Esquire also ran monthly fashion spreads, service articles on the newest consumer goods, travel advice columns and an annual Christmas gift guide. Through the figure of the "Uncommon Man," the name given to the magazine's imagined reader, and the rhetoric of the "New Sophistication," Esquire attempted to negotiate the tension inherent in its contradictory parts. Drawing on research in cultural and intellectual history, gender theory, material culture studies and the sociology of culture, my dissertation investigates how Esquire opened a discursive space in which men could simultaneously construct themselves within and outside of consumer culture.
机译：事实证明，男性消费者对消费文化和性别史学家有问题。通过将消费视为性别认同的表达或副产品，历史学家和其他有关性别的评论者无法将消费文化视为一个重要的场所，在那里，差异本身就是我们所购买的商品，我们想要的物品和我们想象的世界所构成的。为此，当流行的史学模型仅将男性消费者构造为理性的，以目标为导向的商品购买者，或将其视为拒绝承担短暂性快感责任的不道德的自由主义者时，男性消费者便会遇到问题。这两种方法都是站不住脚的，因为它们依赖于对性别本质主义的质疑。我所主张的是一种将消费置于未解决的性别话语实践中的方法。从这个意义上讲，男性消费者的问题在一定程度上说明了史学中的一个较大问题，即我们如何历史化享乐和欲望。我在1945年至1965年间的《时尚先生》一书中试图通过研究文化中介机构在发展关于社会上合法的消费形式的论述中的作用来弥补这一差距。；以反对女性主义的“阳Ma危机”为背景，战后群众文化辩论和新生的反文化，Esquire从一本简陋的男性杂志转变为美国最主要的期刊之一。在1956年至1963年之间，Esquire发表了杰出人物的作品，例如Richard Rovere，Arthur Schlesinger，Jr.，Norman Mailer，Saul Bellow，Dwight Macdonald，Paul Goodman，Diana Trilling，Terry Southern和Nat Hentoff。在同一时期，Esquire还经营每月时尚传播，有关最新消费品的服务文章，旅行建议专栏和年度圣诞节礼物指南。通过给杂志的想象中的读者起名的“不寻常的人”的形象，以及“新的复杂性”的修辞，Esquire试图解决其矛盾部分中固有的张力。本文基于对文化和知识史，性别理论，物质文化研究和文化社会学的研究，研究了绅士如何开辟一种话语空间，使人们可以在消费文化的内部和外部同时建构自己。

著录项

  • 作者

    Cieply, Stefan Konstantyn.;

  • 作者单位

    University of Maryland, College Park.;

  • 授予单位 University of Maryland, College Park.;
  • 学科 American Studies.;Gender Studies.;Mass Communications.;History United States.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 2006
  • 页码 357 p.
  • 总页数 357
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

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