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Pigs, Pork, and Ham: The Practice of Pig-Farming and the Consumption of Pork in Ming-Qing China.

机译:猪,猪肉和火腿:明清中国的养猪习惯和猪肉消费。

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摘要

This dissertation explores pig-husbandry and pork-consumption practices in Ming-Qing China and focuses on the cured pork known as Jinhua Ham. By examining the evolution of pig-feeding practices through agricultural treatises and other food texts, I explore the simple pig-feeding practices of ancient China, the subsequent expansion of pig farming as the Chinese economy and agriculture expanded from northern China to central China, the shift of pork consumption from a medical orientation to a gastronomic orientation, the gradual substitution of omnivorous and foraging pigs for herbivorous and grazing lambs, and the emergence of pig-based commerce in the early modern era. Throughout these historical stages, pig-husbandry practices matured, permitting an expansion of pork surpluses, which were preserved according to specific curing techniques. Borrowing the concept of terroir, I argue that "localized technical skills" emerged in China's Jinhua area, where meat curers applied diverse preparatory methods to specific types of pig in combination with specific ingredients (salt, orchids, and pine tree leaves). Eventually, a reputable cued meat emerged: Jinhua Ham. By the Ming-Qing era, Chinese literati were increasingly producing culinary texts as demand for good-tasting pork dishes grew significantly. In this regard, I argue that literati played a critical role in the daily-life production and consumption of Jinhua Ham---a meat that went from being an unknown and localized cured meat to a cross-regional ham product and national brand.
机译:本文探讨了明清中国的养猪业和猪肉消费习惯,并重点研究了称为金华火腿的腌制猪肉。通过研究农业论文和其他食品文献对养猪方式的演变,我探索了古代中国简单的养猪方式,随后随着中国经济和农业从中国北方向华中地区的发展,养猪业也随之扩大。猪肉消费从医学方向向美食方向转变,杂食性和觅食性猪逐渐取代草食性和放牧性羔羊,并且在近代早期出现了以猪为基础的商业。在这些历史阶段中,养猪业逐渐成熟,使猪肉过剩得以扩大,猪肉过剩根据特定的腌制技术得以保存。借用风土的概念,我认为“本地化的技术技能”出现在中国的金华地区,那里的肉咖喱师将不同的制备方法与特定的食材(盐,兰花和松叶)结合起来,应用于特定类型的猪。最终,出现了一个著名的提示肉:金华火腿。到明清时代,由于对美味猪肉的需求显着增长,中国文人越来越多地制作烹饪文字。在这方面,我认为文人在金华火腿的日常生产和消费中起着至关重要的作用。金华火腿从一种鲜为人知的本地化腌制肉类,发展成为跨地区的火腿产品和民族品牌。

著录项

  • 作者

    Kuo, Chunghao Pio.;

  • 作者单位

    New York University.;

  • 授予单位 New York University.;
  • 学科 History Asia Australia and Oceania.;Asian Studies.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 2013
  • 页码 390 p.
  • 总页数 390
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

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