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Breaking Waves on the Ocean Surface.

机译:海洋表面的浪花。

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摘要

In the open ocean, breaking waves are a critical mechanism for the transfer of energy, momentum, and mass between the atmosphere and the ocean. Despite much study, fundamental questions about wave breaking, such as what determines whether a wave will break, remain unresolved. Measurements of oceanic breakers, or "whitecaps," are often used to validate the hypotheses derived in simplified theoretical, numerical, or experimental studies. Real-world measurements are also used to improve the parameterizations of wave-breaking in large global models, such as those forecasting climate change. Here, measurements of whitecaps are presented using ship-based cameras, from two experiments in the North Pacific Ocean.;First, a method for georectifying the camera imagery is described using the distant horizon, without additional instrumentation. Over the course of the experiment, this algorithm correctly identifies the horizon in 92% of images in which it is visible. In such cases, the calculation of camera pitch and roll is accurate to within 1 degree. The main sources of error in the final georectification are from mislabeled horizons due to clouds, rain, or poor lighting, and from vertical "heave" motions of the camera, which cannot be calculated with the horizon method. This method is used for correcting the imagery from the first experiment, and synchronizing the imagery from the second experiment to an onboard inertial motion package.;Next, measurements of the whitecap coverage, W, are shown from both experiments. Although W is often used in models to represent whitecapping, large uncertainty remains in the existing parameterizations. The data show good agreement with recent measurements using the wind speed. Although wave steepness and dissipation are hypothesized to be more robust predictors of W, this is shown to not always be the case. Wave steepness shows comparable success to the wind parameterizations only when using a mean-square slope variable calculated over the equilibrium range waves and normalizing by the wave directional spread. Meanwhile, correlation of W with turbulent dissipation measurements is significantly worse, which may be due to uncertainty in the measurements or bias related to micro-breaking waves.;Finally, phase-resolved, three-dimensional, measurements of the whitecaps were made from a new ship-based stereo video system. Comparison with concurrent buoy measurements indicate that the stereo data accurately reproduces the wave statistics, including the frequency spectra. The whitecaps are characterized by transient and spatially localized regions of extreme surface gradients, rather than large crest-to-trough steepnesses. It was found that whitecaps were around 10 times more likely to have extreme slopes, and 50% of the observed extreme surface slopes were in the vicinity of the breaking waves. The maximum whitecap slopes show good agreement with the Stokes 120 degree limiting crest geometry, and the whitecap crest loses much of its maximum steepness shortly after the onset of breaking. The whitecap phase speeds are consistently less than the linear or weakly nonlinear predicted phase speed, which indicate the effect of narrow-band wave groups, despite the broad-band wave spectra.
机译:在公海中,浪潮是在大气与海洋之间传递能量,动量和质量的关键机制。尽管进行了大量研究,但有关波浪破碎的基本问题(如确定波浪是否破裂的因素)仍未解决。海洋破坏者或“白浪”的测量通常用于验证简化的理论,数值或实验研究中得出的假设。现实世界的测量值还用于改善大型全球模型(例如那些预测气候变化的模型)中的破碎波参数化。在这里,从北太平洋的两次实验中,使用舰载摄像机对白帽的测量进行了介绍。首先,使用遥远的地平线描述了一种对摄像机影像进行地理校正的方法,无需使用其他仪器。在实验过程中,该算法可正确识别92%可见图像中的地平线。在这种情况下,摄像机俯仰和横滚的计算精确到1度以内。最终地球校正中的主要误差来源是由于云,雨或光线不足而导致的地平线标签错误以及相机的垂直“起伏”运动,而这是无法通过“地平线”方法计算的。此方法用于校正第一个实验的图像,并将第二个实验的图像同步到机载惯性运动数据包。接下来,两个实验均显示了白帽覆盖率W的测量值。尽管在模型中经常使用W来表示白色上限,但现有参数设置仍存在较大的不确定性。数据显示与最近使用风速的测量结果吻合良好。尽管假设波的陡度和耗散是W的更可靠的预测指标,但事实并非总是如此。仅当使用在平衡范围内计算出的均方斜率变量并通过波方向扩展进行归一化时,波陡度才能显示出与风参数化相当的成功。同时,W与湍流耗散测量的相关性明显更差,这可能是由于测量的不确定性或与微破碎波相关的偏差所致;最后,白帽的相分辨三维测量是由新的基于船的立体声视频系统。与同时进行的浮标测量结果的比较表明,立体声数据可以准确地再现波浪统计信息,包括频谱。白帽的特征是具有极端表面梯度的瞬变和空间局部区域,而不是陡峭的波峰到波谷的陡度。发现白帽有极端坡度的可能性高约10倍,观察到的极端表面坡度的50%在破碎波附近。最大白帽斜率与Stokes 120度极限波峰几何形状显示出良好的一致性,并且在断裂开始后不久,白帽波峰失去了其最大陡度。白帽相速度始终小于线性或弱非线性预测的相速度,这表明尽管有宽带波谱,但窄带波群的影响。

著录项

  • 作者

    Schwendeman, Michael S.;

  • 作者单位

    University of Washington.;

  • 授予单位 University of Washington.;
  • 学科 Physical oceanography.;Environmental engineering.;Geophysics.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 2016
  • 页码 156 p.
  • 总页数 156
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

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