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首页> 外文学位 >BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS, WAVE HEIGHT AND WAVE SET-UP UNDER WAVE TRANSFORMATION (DISSIPATION, BREAKING, FRICTION, SHOALING, NONLINEAR, HAWAII).
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BOTTOM SHEAR STRESS, WAVE HEIGHT AND WAVE SET-UP UNDER WAVE TRANSFORMATION (DISSIPATION, BREAKING, FRICTION, SHOALING, NONLINEAR, HAWAII).

机译：波浪形变（耗散，破裂，摩擦，刮擦，非线性，夏威夷）下的底部剪切应力，波浪高度和波浪设置。

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摘要

This study is concerned with the influence of wave transformation and bed shear stress on wave height and wave set-up. The ultimate goal is the prediction of wave height and mean water level in the nearshore zone. In order to develop such a predictive model, relevant empirical relationships were determined based on data measured during a two-dimensional hydraulic model study with a scale of 1:12 representing the Ala Moana reef on the south shore of Oahu, Hawaii.;The bed shear stress was determined by direct measurements of wave forces on the bed and of fluid velocities near the bed under breaking waves and other highly nonlinear waves. The resulting friction factors are compared with the existing friction factor curve by Jonsson (1964), which was established under sinusoidal wave conditions.;Under the assumption that the dominant factors for the dissipation of energy are bottom friction and the wave breaking phenomenon, the energy dissipation is determined based on linear wave theory for the friction loss and on bore similarity for the breaking loss. Correction factors to these theoretical dissipations are empirically obtained.;The effect of the mean shear stress on wave set-up is examined by comparing measured mean water levels with results calculated using the computational procedure developed in this study.;For predicting the wave height from deep water to inside the breaker zone, a new empirical relationship is obtained for the parameters, H/(eta)(,rms), and P(,a) = H(,a)/L(,a) coth('2)(D/L(,a)). The relationship is based on data from this experiment and from Hansen and Svendsen (1979).;It is concluded that the new curve for wave height prediction is applicable in the entire nearshore region, even in the breaking zone, at least for slopes ranging from 0 to 1:34. The Jonsson's friction factor curve for rough turbulence, developed from linear waves, accurately predicts friction factors for highly nonlinear waves, provided that an appropriate particle amplitude at the bed is used. The mean shear stress, which is usually considered to be negligible, is important in the calculation of wave set-up.
机译：这项研究涉及波浪变形和床层切应力对波浪高度和波浪形成的影响。最终目标是预测近岸区域的波高和平均水位。为了建立这样的预测模型，根据在二维水力模型研究中测得的数据确定了相关的经验关系，比例为1:12，代表了夏威夷瓦胡岛南岸的阿拉莫阿纳礁。剪切应力是通过直接测量床上的波浪力和破裂波和其他高度非线性波作用下的床附近流体速度来确定的。将由此产生的摩擦系数与正弦波条件下建立的Jonsson（1964）的现有摩擦系数曲线进行比较;在假设能量耗散的主要因素是底部摩擦和波浪破碎现象的情况下，能量根据线性波理论确定摩擦耗散，并根据孔径相似性确定断裂损耗。凭经验获得对这些理论耗散的校正因子。通过比较测得的平均水位与使用本研究开发的计算程序计算出的结果，检验平均切应力对波浪形的影响。深水到破碎带内部，参数H /（eta）（，rms）和P（，a）= H（，a）/ L（，a）coth（'2 ）（D / L（，a））。这种关系是基于该实验以及Hansen和Svendsen（1979）的数据得出的；得出的结论是，新的波高预测曲线适用于整个近岸地区，甚至在断裂带，至少适用于从0至1:34。如果使用适当的床层颗粒振幅，则由线性波形成的用于粗糙湍流的Jonsson摩擦因数曲线可准确预测高度非线性波的摩擦因数。通常被认为可以忽略不计的平均剪切应力在波浪形成的计算中很重要。

著录项

  • 作者

    NAKAZAKI, EIJI.;

  • 作者单位

    University of Hawai'i at Manoa.;

  • 授予单位 University of Hawai'i at Manoa.;
  • 学科 Ocean engineering.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 1985
  • 页码 159 p.
  • 总页数 159
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

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