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首页> 外文期刊>Archives of Hydro-engineering and Environmental Mechanics >Application of Two Coastal Profile Evolution Models to Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain
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Application of Two Coastal Profile Evolution Models to Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain

机译:两种沿海剖面演化模型在波兰卢比亚托沃和西班牙拉巴罗萨的应用

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摘要

Two contrasting coastal profile models are applied to three bathymetries including a uniform gradient beach and natural profiles (multi-barred and multi-stepped) obtained from Lubiatowo, Poland and La Barrosa, Spain. The first model, developed at the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Science (IBW PAN) (Poland), couples a quasi-3D model for nearshore hydrodynamics with a quasi-phase resolving sediment transport model which considers transport in the bed load, contact load and outer layers. The second model (PLYMPROF), developed at the University of Plymouth (UK), couples a relatively simple wave transformation model with a new abstracted description of cross-shore sediment transport beneath waves. A variety of model simulations are described, including simple runs with uniform wave forcing (up to 50 days in duration using PLYMPROF) and runs with parameterized wave forcing (wave height and wave period in deep water) for periods with one or two storm events (6-11 days total duration). Both models coped well with the different initial profiles and with uniform and time-varying wave conditions. The results of the simulations suggest that onshore-directed sediment transport in the shoaling and outer surf zones is dominant for the cases considered. Compared to the IBW PAN model, the PLYMPROF model results (using coefficients from a separate study of bar evolution at Duck, USA) show larger offshore-directed transport in the inner surf zone associated with return flow, with the overall sediment transport pattern located considerably closer to the shore. Alteration of a single coefficient in the PLYMPROF model shifts the predicted transport pattern seawards, but also results in enhanced offshore-directed transport. Despite differences in predicted cross-shore sediment transport the two models produced surprisingly similar trends in overall profile evolution suggesting that feedback between existing bathymetry and the sediment transport pattern may exert a major control on profile development. Results also suggested that bar migration patterns cannot be simply related to the occurrence or absence of storm conditions, but rather depend more subtly on the exact placement of wave breaking locations in relation to existing bars. Incorporation of tidal water level variations for La Barrosa produced small changes in model predictions, with tidal migration of the sediment flux pattern suppressing the development of bar morphology in line with the form of the observed profile.
机译:将两个对比鲜明的沿海剖面模型应用于三个测深模型,包括均匀的梯度海滩和从波兰的卢比亚托沃和西班牙的拉巴罗萨获得的自然剖面(多栅栏和多台阶)。第一个模型是由波兰科学院水利工程研究所(IBW PAN)(波兰)开发的,该模型将近岸流体动力学的准3D模型与考虑了床层运移的准相解析泥沙运移模型相结合。负载,接触负载和外层。英国普利茅斯大学开发的第二个模型(PLYMPROF)将相对简单的波浪转换模型与波浪下跨岸沉积物输送的新抽象描述结合在一起。描述了各种模型模拟,包括具有均匀波浪强迫的简单运行(使用PLYMPROF长达50天),以及具有参数化波浪强迫的运行(深水中的波浪高度和波浪周期),运行一到两个暴风雨事件(总持续时间为6-11天)。两种模型都能很好地应对不同的初始剖面以及均匀且随时间变化的波浪条件。模拟结果表明,在所考虑的情况下,浅滩和外海冲浪区的陆上定向沉积物运输是主要的。与IBW PAN模型相比,PLYMPROF模型的结果(使用来自美国Duck的条形演化的单独研究的系数)显示,与回流相伴的内海带中较大的离岸定向输运,总体泥沙输运模式位于靠近岸边。 PLYMPROF模型中单个系数的更改会使预测的运输方式向海移动,但也会导致海上定向运输的发展。尽管预测的跨岸泥沙运移存在差异,但这两个模型在整体剖面演化中产生了令人惊讶的相似趋势,这表明现有的测深法和泥沙输送模式之间的反馈可能对剖面发育起主要控制作用。结果还表明,钢筋的迁移模式不能简单地与暴风雨条件的发生或不存在相关,而更多地取决于波浪破碎位置相对于现有钢筋的确切位置。结合La Barrosa的潮汐水位变化,在模型预测中产生了很小的变化,随着泥沙通量模式的潮汐迁移,抑制了条形形态的发展,与观察到的轮廓一致。

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