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Assimilation of ocean wave spectra and atmospheric circulation patterns to improve wave modelling

机译：吸收海浪频谱和大气环流模式以改善波浪建模

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The modelling of waves associated with extreme events is fundamental to coastal engineering design and coastal vulnerability assessments. The storm systems that drive extreme wave events are associated with specific atmospheric circulation patterns (CPs). In this paper the link between these circulation patterns and wave spectra is explored as a means to improve wave modelling in engineering applications. The methodology involves partitioning wave spectra into low frequency swell and locally generated wind waves. The origin(s) of the swell waves can then be estimated in order to link them to the atmospheric circulation pattern(s) that generated them. A method based on fuzzy logic and fuzzy sets is used to identify and classify the atmospheric circulation patterns. Finally the spectral characteristics associated with specific circulation patterns can be obtained. The methodology is tested using a case study on the east coast of South Africa. The atmospheric circulation patterns driving low frequency swell events resemble those previously identified as the dominant drivers of significant wave events in the region. The link between wave spectra and CPs can be used to study the impacts of specific CPs on the coastline. For example the spectra associated with swell produced by tropical cyclones can be used to model their potential impacts. This new methodology may improve the inputs to spectral wave models and aid studies of climate change impacts. It may also help in identifying statistically independent storm events and improve multivariate statistical models of such events. (C) 2015 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
机译：与极端事件相关的海浪建模是海岸工程设计和海岸脆弱性评估的基础。引发极端海浪事件的风暴系统与特定的大气环流模式（CP）相关联。在本文中，探索了这些循环模式与波谱之间的联系，作为在工程应用中改进波建模的一种手段。该方法涉及将波谱划分为低频膨胀和局部产生的风波。然后可以估计涌浪的起源，以便将它们与产生它们的大气环流模式联系起来。采用基于模糊逻辑和模糊集的方法对大气环流模式进行识别和分类。最后，可以获得与特定循环模式相关的光谱特性。该方法已通过南非东海岸的案例研究进行了测试。引起低频膨胀事件的大气环流模式类似于先前被确定为该地区重大波浪事件的主要驱动器。波浪频谱和CPs之间的联系可用于研究特定CPs对海岸线的影响。例如，与热带气旋产生的隆起相关的光谱可用于模拟其潜在影响。这种新方法可能会改善频谱波模型的输入，并有助于研究气候变化的影响。它还可能有助于确定统计上独立的风暴事件，并改善此类事件的多元统计模型。 （C）2015 Elsevier B.V.保留所有权利。

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