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首页> 外文期刊>Coastal engineering >Momentum balance under breaking waves: Closure to discussion by T.E. Baldock of 'Laboratory investigation of pressure gradients induced by plunging breakers'
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Momentum balance under breaking waves: Closure to discussion by T.E. Baldock of 'Laboratory investigation of pressure gradients induced by plunging breakers'

机译：巨浪下的动量平衡：T.E。结束讨论Baldock的“破碎锤引起的压力梯度实验室研究”

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This paper replies to observations put forward by Prof. T.E. Baldock [ Baldock, T.E., 2012. Discussion of "Laboratory investigation of pressure gradients induced by plunging breakers", by Pedrozo-Acufia et al. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 66, August 2012, pages 1-2] regarding a laboratory investigation of pressure gradients induced by plunging breakers. Firstly, we focused on clarifying the inconsistencies and present the revised figures which do not change the conclusions reached in the study. Moreover, in order to confirm and extend the derived conclusions in the aforementioned investigation, we conduct a numerical study of momentum balance in the surf zone for different types of breaking. The analysis incorporates results from a well validated RANS model, which enables the assessment of the fluid acceleration and pressure gradients. It is demonstrated that the type of wave breaking controls the relative importance of pressure gradients and bed shear stresses in the sediment transport within the surf zone.
机译：本文答复了T.E.教授提出的意见。 Baldock [Baldock，T.E.，2012年。Pedrozo-Acufia等人讨论了“由跌落式破碎机引起的压力梯度的实验室研究”。海岸工程，第一卷。 [第66页，2012年8月，第1-2页]，是关于由破碎锤引起的压力梯度的实验室研究。首先，我们着重于澄清不一致之处，并提出修改后的数字，这些数字不会改变研究中得出的结论。此外，为了证实和扩展上述研究中得出的结论，我们对不同破坏类型的冲浪区动量平衡进行了数值研究。该分析结合了经过充分验证的RANS模型的结果，该模型能够评估流体的加速度和压力梯度。结果表明，波浪破碎的类型控制着海底区域内输沙过程中压力梯度和床层剪应力的相对重要性。

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