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Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves

机译:长波,波群和随机波引起的海滩剖面演变以及海浪和冲积带泥沙输运的大规模实验

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摘要

New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Physical model testing was performed in the large-scale CIEM wave flume at UPC, Barcelona, as part of the SUSCO (swash zone response under grouping storm conditions) experiment in the Hydralab III program (Vicinanza et al., 2010). Fourteen different wave conditions were used, encompassing monochromatic waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves. The experiments were designed specifically to compare variations in beach profile evolution between monochromatic waves and unsteady waves with the same mean energy flux. Each test commenced with approximately the same initial profile. The monochromatic conditions were perturbed with free long waves, and then subsequently substituted with bichromatic wave groups with different bandwidth and with random waves with varying groupiness. Beach profile measurements were made at half-hourly and hourly intervals, from which net cross-shore transport rates were calculated for the different wave conditions. Pairs of experiments with slightly different bandwidth or wave grouping show very similar net cross-shore sediment transport patterns, giving high confidence to the data set. Consistent with recent small-scale experiments, the data clearly show that in comparison to monochromatic conditions the bichromatic wave groups reduce onshore transport during accretive conditions and increase offshore transport during erosive conditions. The random waves have a similar influence to the bichromatic wave groups, promoting offshore transport, in comparison to the monochromatic conditions. The data also indicate that the free long waves promote onshore transport, but the conclusions are more tentative as a result of a few errors in the test schedule and modifications to the setup which reduced testing time. The experiments suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution, and they provide a very comprehensive and controlled series of tests for evaluating numerical models. It is suggested that the large change in the beach response between monochromatic conditions and wave group conditions is a result of the increased significant and maximum wave heights in the wave groups, as much as the presence of the forced and free long waves induced by the groupiness. The equilibrium state model concept can provide a heuristic explanation of the influence of the wave groups on the bulk beach profile response if their effective relative fall velocity is larger than that of monochromatic waves with the same incident energy flux.
机译:提出了新的大规模实验室数据,这些数据涉及长波,双色波群和随机波对海浪和急流带泥沙输送的影响。 Hydralab III程序中的SUSCO(分组风暴条件下的斜带响应)实验的一部分在巴塞罗那UPC的大型CIEM波浪槽中进行了物理模型测试(Vicinanza等,2010)。使用了十四种不同的波情况,包括单色波,双色波组和随机波。这些实验是专门设计用来比较具有相同平均能量通量的单色波和非稳态波之间海滩剖面演变的变化。每次测试都以大致相同的初始配置开始。单色条件受到自由长波的干扰,然后被具有不同带宽的双色波组和具有不同族群的随机波所取代。每半小时和每小时间隔进行一次海滩剖面测量,从中计算出不同波浪条件下的净跨岸运输速率。带宽或波群稍有不同的成对实验显示出非常相似的净跨海岸沉积物传输模式,这给数据集带来了很高的可信度。与最近的小规模实验一致,数据清楚地表明,与单色条件相比,双色波群在增生条件下减少了陆上运输,在侵蚀条件下增加了近海运输。与单色条件相比,随机波对双色波群具有相似的影响,从而促进了海上运输。数据还表明,自由的长波促进了陆上运输,但由于测试计划中的一些错误以及对设置的修改(减少了测试时间),因此得出的结论更具暂定性。实验表明,包含长波和波群泥沙运移对于改善跨岸海滩剖面演变的近岸形态学模型非常重要,并且它们为评估数值模型提供了非常全面且可控制的一系列测试。建议单色条件和波群条件之间海滩响应的较大变化是波群中显着和最大波高增加的结果,这是由于群聚引起的强迫和自由长波的存在。如果波组的有效相对下降速度大于具有相同入射能量通量的单色波的下降速度,则平衡状态模型概念可以对波组对整体海滩剖面响应的影响进行启发式解释。

著录项

  • 来源
    《Coastal engineering》 |2011年第2期|p.214-227|共14页
  • 作者单位

    School of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD 4068, Australia;

    Laboratorio de Ingenieria Maritima, Universidad Politecnica de Cataluna, 08034 Barcelona, Spain;

    Laboratorio de Ingenieria Maritima, Universidad Politecnica de Cataluna, 08034 Barcelona, Spain;

    Dipartimento di Ingegneria Civile - Centra Interdipartimentale di Ricerca in Ingegneria Ambientale, Seconda Universita di Napoli. Via Roma 29, 81031 Aversa (Caserta), Italy;

    Dipartimento di Ingegneria Civile - Centra Interdipartimentale di Ricerca in Ingegneria Ambientale, Seconda Universita di Napoli. Via Roma 29, 81031 Aversa (Caserta), Italy;

    School of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, Brisbane, QLD 4068, Australia;

    Laboratorio de Ingenieria Maritima, Universidad Politecnica de Cataluna, 08034 Barcelona, Spain;

  • 收录信息 美国《科学引文索引》(SCI);美国《工程索引》(EI);
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

    long waves; wave groups; sediment transport; surf zone; surf beat; swash zone; beach morphodynamics;

    机译:长波;波浪群;沉积物输送;冲浪区;冲浪节拍;斜波带;海滩形态动力学;

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