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SWAN predictions of waves observed in shallow water onshore of complex bathymetry

机译:SWAN对复杂测深仪在岸浅水区观测到的波浪的预测

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摘要

SWAN model predictions, initialized with directional wave buoy observations in 550-m water depth offshore of a steep, submarine canyon, are compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0-m water depths. Although the model assumptions include small bottom slopes, the alongshore variations of the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over the steep canyon are predicted well over the 50 days of observations. For example, in 2.5-m water depth, the observed and predicted wave heights vary by up to a factor of 4 over about 1000 m alongshore, and wave directions vary by up to about 10°, sometimes changing from south to north of shore normal. Root-mean-square errors of the predicted wave heights, mean directions, periods, and radiation stresses (less than 0.13 m, 5°, 1 s, and 0.05 m~3/s~2 respectively) are similar near and far from the canyon. Squared correlations between the observed and predicted wave heights usually are greater than 0.8 in all water depths. However, the correlations for mean directions and radiation stresses decrease with decreasing water depth as waves refract and become normally incident. Although mean wave properties observed in shallow water are predicted accurately, nonlinear energy transfers from near-resonant triads are not modeled well, and the observed and predicted wave energy spectra can differ significantly at frequencies greater than the spectral peak, especially for narrow-band swell.
机译:将SWAN模型的预测与在海底陡峭峡谷的550米水深处的定向波浮标观测值初始化后,与在5.0、2.5和1.0 m水深处的波观测值进行比较。尽管模型假设包括小的底坡,但在50天的观测中,可以很好地预测由于陡峭峡谷上的折射而引起的近岸波场的沿岸变化。例如,在水深为2.5 m的地方,沿岸大约1000 m处观测到的和预测的波高变化4倍,并且波向变化约10°,有时从岸法线的南到北变化。预测波高,平均方向,周期和辐射应力(分别小于0.13 m,5°,1 s和0.05 m〜3 / s〜2)的均方根误差在接近和远离峡谷。在所有水深中,观测到的波高与预测的波高之间的平方相关通常大于0.8。但是,平均方向和辐射应力的相关性随着波的折射和垂直入射而随着水深的减小而减小。尽管可以准确预测在浅水中观测到的平均波特性,但是对来自近共振三合体的非线性能量传输建模不够好,并且在大于频谱峰值的频率处,观察到的和预测的波能谱可能会有显着差异,尤其是对于窄带膨胀。

著录项

  • 来源
    《Coastal engineering》 |2011年第6期|p.510-516|共7页
  • 作者单位

    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA;

    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA;

    Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA;

    Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Lajolla, CA 92093, USA;

  • 收录信息 美国《科学引文索引》(SCI);美国《工程索引》(EI);
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

    waves; modeling; refraction;

    机译:波浪;建模;折射;

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