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A hydrodynamic model of nearshore waves and wave-induced currents

机译：近岸波浪和波浪感应水流的水动力模型

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ABSTRACT In This study develops a quasi-three dimensional numerical model of wave driven coastal currents with accounting the effects of the wave-current interaction and the surface rollers. In the wave model, the current effects on wave breaking and energy dissipation are taken into account as well as the wave diffraction effect. The surface roller associated with wave breaking was modeled based on a modification of the equations by Dally and Brown (1995) and Larson and Kraus (2002). Furthermore, the quasi-three dimensional model, which based on Navier-Stokes equations, was modified in association with the surface roller effect, and solved using frictional step method. The model was validated by data sets obtained during experiments on the Large Scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) basin and the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station (HORS). Then, a model test against detached breakwater was carried out to investigate the performance of the model around coastal structures. Finally, the model was applied to Akasaki port to verify the hydrodynamics around coastal structures. Good agreements between computations and measurements were obtained with regard to the cross-shore variation in waves and currents in nearshore and surf zone.
机译：摘要本研究建立了波浪驱动的海岸流的准三维数值模型，其中考虑了波浪流相互作用和表面滚子的影响。在波浪模型中，考虑了电流对断波和能量耗散的影响以及波的衍射效应。与波浪破碎相关的表面滚子是基于Dally和Brown（1995）以及Larson和Kraus（2002）对方程式的修改而建模的。此外，基于Navier-Stokes方程的准三维模型与表面滚子效应相关联进行了修改，并使用摩擦阶跃法进行了求解。该模型已通过在大型泥沙输送设施（LSTF）盆地和Hazaki海洋学研究站（HORS）进行的实验中获得的数据集进行了验证。然后，针对分离的防波堤进行了模型测试，以研究该模型在沿海建筑物周围的性能。最后，将该模型应用于赤崎港，以验证沿海结构周围的水动力。关于近岸和冲浪区波浪和水流的跨岸变化，计算和测量之间取得了良好的一致性。

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