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Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

机译：障碍岛上的运行参数化和海滩脆弱性评估：缩减规模的方法

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We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme waterlevels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Waveinformation from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situmeasurements at 8?m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm isemployed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassingdifferent combinations of wave characteristics and tidal level. The selectedcases are propagated from 8?m water depth to the shore using the couplingof a third-generation wave model and a phase-resolving non-hydrostaticnonlinear shallow-water equation model. Extreme wave run-up, R2%, is estimated for the simulated cases and can be further employed to reconstruct the 30-year time series using an interpolation algorithm. Downscaling results show run-up saturation during more energetic wave conditions and modulation owing to tides. The latter suggests that the R2% can be parameterized using a hyperbolic-like formulation with dependency on both wave height and tidal level. The new parametric formulation is in agreement with the downscaling results (r2??=??0.78), allowing a fast calculation of wave-induced extreme water levels at this location. Finally, an assessment of beach vulnerability to wave-induced extreme water levels is conducted at the study area by employing the two approaches (reconstruction/parameterization) and a storm impact scale. The 30-year extreme water level hindcast allows the calculation of beach vulnerability as a function of return periods. It is shown that the downscaling-derived parameterization provides reasonable results as compared with the numerical approach. This methodology can be extended to other locations and can be further improved by incorporating the storm surge contributions to the extreme water level.
机译：我们提出了一种缩减规模的方法，用于研究墨西哥尤卡坦州的隔离岛上某处波浪引起的极端水位。在水深8？m的情况下，通过现场测量验证了30年后浪的波信息。采用最大不相似算法选择600个代表性案例，包括波浪特征和潮汐水平的不同组合。使用第三代波浪模型和相变非静水非线性浅水方程模型的耦合，将选定的案例从8？m的水深传播到海岸。对于模拟情况，估计了极端波上升， R 2％，并且可以进一步使用插值算法来重建30年时间序列。降尺度结果表明，在更多的高能波情况下，由于潮汐，饱和度上升。后者表明 R 2％可以使用类似于双曲线的公式来参数化，该公式取决于波高和潮汐水平。新的参数公式与缩小结果（ r 2 ?? =？0.78）一致，从而可以快速计算该位置的波浪诱发的极端水位。最后，通过采用两种方法（重建/参数化）和风暴影响量表，对研究区域的海滩对波浪引起的极端水位的脆弱性进行了评估。 30年的极端水位后向预报可以计算海滩脆弱性作为回水期的函数。结果表明，与数值方法相比，降尺度参数化提供了合理的结果。该方法可以扩展到其他位置，并且可以通过将风暴潮的贡献纳入极端水位来进一步改进。

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