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LONGSHORE BAR GENERATION MECHANISMS

机译：长廊酒吧的产生机制

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摘要

A laboratory study was conducted to investigate mechanisms of bar formation with particular focus on infragravity wave and break point mechanisms. With one exception, all tests commenced with a planar beach composed of fine sand. Infragravity (IG) waves, the result of a biharmonic primary wave spectrum, were generated and documented. For various frequency differences of the components of the primary spectrum and thus the frequencies of the IG wave, the changes in nodal/antinodal positions were compared with the changes in positions of the bar formed during the experiment. It was found that the bar position experienced relatively small movements whereas the nodal/antinodal positions changed substantially as expected with the difference frequency of the primary waves. The approximately constant bar position was interpreted as due to the relatively constant primary wave height characteristics. The effects of the wave spectrum and wave height distribution on bar formation were investigated. The shape of the wave height probability distribution function was found to exert a noticeable control on the degree of bar relief, with those distributions characterized by a substantial concentration near the maximum wave height causing the more prominent bars. This is interpreted in terms of a transport influence function which, if held stationary, would result in a narrow prominent bar. The distributions with a small concentration near the maximum wave height resulted in a less prominent bar. A conceptual model is proposed which incorporates the transport distribution function and which results in bar characteristics which depend on the initial conditions.
机译：进行了一项实验室研究，以研究钢筋形成的机理，特别着重于重力波和断点机理。除一个例外，所有测试均始于由细沙组成的平坦海滩。产生并记录了双谐波一次波谱的结果，即次重力波（IG）。对于主频谱分量的各种频率差异以及IG波的频率，将节点位置/蚁口位置的变化与实验过程中形成的条形位置的变化进行了比较。发现杆位置经历了相对较小的运动，而节点/蚁口位置随着一次波的不同频率而基本按预期变化。大致恒定的条形位置被解释为归因于相对恒定的主波高度特性。研究了波谱和波高分布对棒形的影响。发现波高概率分布函数的形状对钢筋的起伏程度具有明显的控制作用，这些分布的特征是在最大波浪高度附近大量集中导致钢筋更加突出。这是根据运输影响函数来解释的，如果保持不变，则会导致狭窄的突出条。在最大波高附近浓度较小的分布导致条形不太突出。提出了一个概念模型，该模型包含了运输分布函数，并导致了取决于初始条件的钢筋特性。

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