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首页> 外文期刊>Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering >LABORATORY STUDY OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ON BARRED BEACH PROFILES
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LABORATORY STUDY OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ON BARRED BEACH PROFILES

机译：禁止海滩轮廓波变换的实验室研究

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In previously reported laboratory experiments, the authors found that incident waves with the same characteristics in deep water break differently on barred and plane-sloping beaches. For example, waves of greater steepness that plunge on plane beaches tend to collapse on barred beaches, and plunge distance on barred profiles is about half that on a plane sloping beach for a given wave steepness. In the present study, wave height transformation, reflection, and runup of monochromatic and random waves are investigated for barred and plane beach profiles in a wave tank, with deep-water wave steepness varied from 0.0085 to 0.09. For monochromatic and random waves, wave-height to waterdepth ratios are higher for waves breaking on bars, whereas just seaward of breaking these ratios are lower than on a plane beach. For plane and barred beaches, the ratios unite in the inner surf zone, and the magnitude and shape of wave spectra are the same at fixed points outside and inside the surf zone, except just shoreward of the break point, where the spectrum on a barred profile has the same shape but contains less energy. Despite differences in breaker-related quantities on barred and plane beach profiles, runup, reflection, and wave height transformation in the surf zone on barred profiles are mainly controlled by the plane beach slope on which the bar or reef is located, with only minor influence by a bar, even for extremely-shaped obstacles such as reefs.
机译：在先前报道的实验室实验中，作者发现，深水中具有相同特征的入射波在禁止的和倾斜的海滩上的破裂方式不同。例如，在给定的波浪陡度下，在平面海滩上倾泻的陡峭度较高的波浪往往会在禁止的海滩上坍塌，并且在禁止倾斜的剖面上，倾泻距离约为在平坦的倾斜海滩上的倾角的一半。在本研究中，研究了波浪罐中禁止和平坦海滩剖面的单色和随机波的波高转换，反射和上升，深水波陡度从0.0085到0.09不等。对于单色波和随机波，在条形波上破碎的波浪的波高与水深之比较高，而仅向海面破裂时，这些比率比在平面海滩上低。对于平面和禁止的海滩，比率在内部冲浪区中合并，并且在冲浪区外部和内部的固定点处，波谱的大小和形状相同，只是在断点的岸边型材具有相同的形状，但包含的能量较少。尽管在禁止和平面海滩轮廓上与破碎机相关的量有所不同，但禁止在轮廓上的冲浪区中的爬升，反射和波高转换主要由条形或礁石所处的平面海滩坡度控制，而影响较小甚至对于诸如礁石之类的异型障碍物也可以通过杆来操纵。

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