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Wool

机译:羊毛

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摘要

1 Many of us associate wool with sheep, but other mammals - including alpacas, camels and goats -also produce fibers that can be twisted into yarn and then textiles. 2 It's possible humans started making wool after noticing that, as the fibrous hairs were scraped from the hide of an animal, they twisted together easily into lengths. 3 Wool fibers - made mostly of alpha-keratin, which is found in all mammalian hair as well as horns and claws - stick together easily. The cells of their outer layer, or cuticle, have evolved to overlap like tiny shingles, creating spots for one fiber to catch on another as they are twisted. 4 Clothing and other items made of wool have been found throughout much of the ancient world, from 3,400-year-old Egyptian yarn to fragmentary textiles unearthed in Siberian graves dating from the first century B.C. 5 The process of making wool fabric from fibers was rough going at first - literally. Wild and early domesticated sheep have a bristly overcoat called the kemp and a fine undercoat of wool called the fleece. Over time, animals were selected for more fleece, with finer fibers, and less kemp. The more than 200 domesticated sheep species today are mostly kemp-free. 6 Modern wool fibers range from a fine 16 microns in diameter, from merinos, to 40 microns. 7 That itch from your warm winter woolies? Most likely it's sensitivity to thicker (and coarser) fiber diameter or fiber ends, not a wool allergy, which is practically unknown. 8 Less lush pastures - such as in a drought -can produce finer fibers, with smaller diameters. 9 Wool has been a valuable commodity across cultures and centuries. When Richard I (the Lion-hearted) was captured in 1192, Cistercian monks paid their part of the ransom to the Holy Roman emperor in 50,000 sacks of wool (a year's clip). 10 Wool has stood in for even more precious fabrics: In 18th-century Norway, when the king forbade the wearing of silk by commoners, farmers opted for imported worsted wool fabric, which had a similar sheen. 11 Besides clothing, wool has quite a few industrial uses, from piano dampers to absorbent pads for those baaaaad oil spills. 12 Out on some Montana roadsides, woolen silt fences and erosion-control blankets are cropping up, according to Rob Ament of the Western Transportation Institute, which adapted the practice from New Zealand colleagues. 13 Wool has the right properties for the job because it's a lightweight ground covering that allows seedlings to grow right through it. 14 Wool is also biodegradable. It breaks down slowly, fertilizing the plants with a generous nitrogen content of a whopping 17 percent compared with the 6 percent nitrogen in commercial turf products. And it is water-retentive. 15 In a seeming paradox, wool can absorb and repel water simultaneously. 16 The outer surface of wool fiber is made up of fatty acid proteins and does not absorb liquid. However, structural features in the fiber's interior, called salt linkages, can sop up copious amounts of moisture in vapor form. 17 In short, wool hates liquid but loves vapor. 18 But wait, there's more: With a high natural ignition point of about 1,382 degrees Fahrenheit, wool is fire-resistant. And unlike nylon and polyester, wool does not drip or melt when it does catch fire. 19 These qualities recently attracted the interest of the U.S. Army, which is researching wool's potential in clothing designed to protect combat troops from explosive blasts. 20 We can thank wool for a different kind of explosion - one we actually want. Inside most baseballs, including those used in Major League Baseball, you'll find layers of tightly wound wool yarn: Each ball contains about 370 yards of the wool windings, which provide resilience to withstand the crushing impact of a batter's hit off high-velocity pitches.
机译:1我们中的许多人将羊毛与绵羊联系在一起,但是其他哺乳动物(包括羊驼,骆驼和山羊)也产生可以被捻成纱线然后变成纺织品的纤维。 2人们可能会注意到羊毛的毛发是从动物皮上刮下来的,因此很容易将它们捻成一定的长度,因此人们开始制造羊毛。 3羊毛纤维-主要由α-角蛋白制成,很容易粘在一起,这种纤维在所有哺乳动物的头发以及角和爪中都可以找到。它们外层或表皮的细胞已经演化成像微小的带状疱疹一样重叠,从而在一根纤维扭曲时会形成斑点,使一根纤维能够紧贴另一根纤维。 4在整个古代世界中都发现了羊毛制的服装和其他物品,从3400年的埃及纱到公元前一世纪在西伯利亚坟墓中出土的零碎纺织品。 5从纤维制造羊毛织物的过程起初很粗糙-实际上。野生和早期驯养的绵羊有一层刚毛叫kemp的外衣,还有一块细羊毛被称为羊毛的内毛。随着时间的流逝,人们选择了更多的羊毛,更细的纤维和更少的肯普来饲养动物。如今,有200多种驯化的绵羊品种大多不含肯普。 6现代羊毛纤维的直径范围从16微米到40微米不等。 7温暖的冬季羊毛衫有痒感吗?它很可能对较粗(和较粗)的纤维直径或纤维末端敏感,而不是羊毛过敏,这实际上是未知的。 8较少的草场(例如在干旱中)可以生产出直径较小的细纤维。 9羊毛是跨文化和跨世纪的宝贵商品。 1192年,理查德一世(狮友)被捕时,西多会的僧侣们用50,000袋羊毛(一年的夹子)将赎金的一部分支付给了神圣罗马帝国皇帝。 10羊毛代表着更高价的面料:在18世纪的挪威,国王禁止平民穿丝,农民选择了进口的精纺羊毛面料,其光泽类似。 11除了服装外,羊毛还有许多工业用途,从钢琴阻尼器到吸油垫等,都是为了防止漏油。 12根据西方同事的做法,西部运输学院的罗布·阿曼特(Rob Ament)认为,在蒙大纳州的一些路边,羊毛粉沙围栏和防侵蚀毯子正在出现。 13羊毛具有合适的性能,因为它是一种轻质的地面覆盖物,可让幼苗从中生长。 14羊毛也是可生物降解的。它分解缓慢,给植物施肥的氮含量高达17%,而商用草皮产品中的氮含量仅为6%。而且它是保水的。 15在看似矛盾的地方,羊毛可以同时吸收和排斥水。 16羊毛纤维的外表面由脂肪酸蛋白质组成,不吸收液体。但是,纤维内部的结构特征(称为盐键)可以吸收大量蒸汽形式的水分。 17简而言之,羊毛讨厌液体,但喜欢蒸气。 18但是,等等,还有更多:羊毛具有约1,382华氏度的高自然着火点,具有防火性。与尼龙和聚酯不同,羊毛着火时不会滴落或熔化。 19这些品质最近吸引了美国陆军的兴趣,美国陆军正在研究羊毛在服装中的潜力,这些服装旨在保护战斗部队免受爆炸的伤害。 20我们要感谢羊毛带来的另一种爆炸-我们真正​​想要的爆炸。在大多数棒球中,包括在美国职棒大联盟中使用的棒球,您会发现一层紧密缠绕的羊毛纱:每个球包含大约370码的羊毛缠绕,提供了弹性,可以承受击球手击打高速时的压碎冲击球场。

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  • 来源
    《Discover》 |2015年第9期|74-74|共1页
  • 作者

    MARGARET SHAKESPEARE;

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