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The mushroom man

机译:蘑菇人

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WHEN Antonio Carluccio arrived in Britain in 1975, nervous and tongue-tied, he found Italian food restricted mostly to London's Soho. There a few trattorie made their own pasta, and knew that olive oil was not merely for unblocking ears. At Lina Stores he could buy olives, panforte and dry spaghetti. Otherwise and elsewhere, what he called "Britalian" food held sway: ragu that was just flavoured mince, avocado served with a gloop made of ketchup and mayonnaise and, to finish, oranges in a sickly syrup masquerading as caramelata. All very depressing. Three decades later, when Carluccio's was listed on the stock exchange and he and his then-wife, Priscilla Conran, had sold their stake for around £1om, his name was on the dark blue blinds of 130 outlets across the land. His 23 books and multiple tv series had made his curly white cap of hair and ample girth synonymous with real Italian food, the sort that made you sigh and cry "Fantastic!", like him, when you tasted it. In Carluccio's Caffes, Britons could not only eat in proper Italian style but could also buy chilli oil, fennel salami, wild-boar sauce, squid-ink linguine. Though many chefs, writers and restaurateurs helped promote the cause in Britain, his name was in the vanguard.
机译:1975年,安东尼奥·卡卢西奥(Antonio Carluccio)紧张不安地缠着舌头来到英国时,发现意大利食品主要限于伦敦的苏活区(Soho)。那里有一些小餐馆做他们自己的面食,他们知道橄榄油不仅是为了使耳朵畅通。在利纳(Lina)商店,他可以购买橄榄,panforte和干意大利面。在其他地方或其他地方,他所谓的“ Britalian”食品风靡一时:刚刚调味过的肉末,鳄梨配以番茄酱和蛋黄酱制成的gloop,最后是伪装成焦糖酱的病糖浆中的橘子。一切都很令人沮丧。三十年后,当卡卢西奥(Carluccio's)在证券交易所上市时,他和他的妻子普里西拉·康兰(Priscilla Conran)以大约100万英镑的价格出售了所持股份,他的名字出现在全美130个网点的深蓝色百叶窗上。他的23本书和多部电视连续剧使他卷曲的白发和充足的周长成为真正的意大利美食的代名词,当您品尝时,就像他一样,您叹了口气并大喊“神奇!”。在卡卢西奥(Carluccio)的Caffes中,英国人不仅可以以适当的意大利风格进餐,还可以购买辣椒油,茴香香肠,野猪酱,鱿鱼墨扁面条。尽管许多厨师,作家和餐馆老板在英国促进了这一事业,但他的名字却是先锋。

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    《The economist》 |2017年第9069期|82-82|共1页
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