THE view from the roof of Rome's city hall makes others seem inconsequential. Just a turn of the head is sufficient to take in Trajan's Column, the Forums, the Colosseum, the Palatine Hill and the Circus Maximus-all set against a backdrop of the blue-grey Apennine mountains. This may be the world's greatest, and most beautiful, open-air museum. But in the past few weeks it has become a battleground too, involving two parties with different visions of how to cope with the burgeoning number of tourists clamouring to see Italy's cultural riches.
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