"On all the roads we traversed be-tween Yozgat and Kayseri, about 80 per cent of the Muslims we encountered (there were no Christians left in these parts) were wearing European clothes, bearing on their persons proof of the crimes that they had committed. Barefoot peasant boys wore formal clothes; men sported gold chains and watches." Thus wrote Grigoris Balakian, an Armenian Orthodox priest who witnessed the aftermath of the mass slaughter of his ethnic brethren by Ottoman forces in 1915-16. On April 24th 1915, scores of Armenian intellectuals were rounded up in Istanbul and most were later murdered. But as the centenary approaches, what followed is still bitterly contested.
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