At the height of the struggle between American troops and Arab insurgents in Iraq less than a decade ago, residents of the capital, Baghdad, woke up every day wondering if it might be their last. They perished in bloody batches, mostly at the hands of Iraqis, blown to pieces by car bombs or pulled out of minibuses and executed at rogue checkpoints, their bodies rolled into the Tigris river. Visitors were warned by residents with limitless gallows humour about eating the local grilled fish, masguf-for you know what they snack on.
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