On a boat gliding its way down an undulating peninsula where the dense virgin woods are crowned by a numinous marble peak, the atmosphere is carefree. The autumn rays make glorious patterns in the sea, and what appear to be medieval towns, with winding cobblestoned streets, tall houses and multicoloured domes, dot the coastline. The boat's passengers include parish groups and choirs from all over Greece, and farther afield, especially eastern Christian lands such as Russia, Romania and Serbia. Homely announcements ("The group from Corfu may open their sandwiches when- -ever they choose") and dollops of local history (tales of miracle-working icons, saintly monastic founders and ascetic labourers) are served up over a loudspeaker in various east European tongues, vying with the seagulls.
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