A strange cast of Western tourists, Nepalese pilgrims, Tibetan refugees and Chinese spies is forever circling the great stupa at Boudha in Kathmandu, Nepal's capital. As people walk clockwise around the building, as prescribed by Buddhist tradition, Nepalese plain-clothes security men mingle among them. Ever since protests in the Tibetan capital, Lhasa, were violently suppressed in 2008, Tibetan refugees in Nepal have come under intense pressure from local authorities, closely directed by officials from the Chinese embassy.
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