The doormen outside the headquarters of Shanghai's Municipal Education Commission have a new colleague these days. On Friday evenings and Saturday mornings they are joined by a young Mandarin-speaking Israeli, who keeps an eye on comings and goings. The ivy-covered compound, built in the 1920s, is also the home of Ohel Rachel, one of Shanghai's last surviving synagogues. This month, for the first time in almost 60 years, it reopened for regular Sabbath services.
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