Visitors to Palermo, a well-heeled neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, are used to having their hair primped to perfection and their body fat measured That goes both for the humans who frequent the trendy boutiques and spas and for the prize Aberdeen Angus cows that arrive at the agricultural show held there every July. This year, the visiting ranchers are preoccupied by the beef industry's informal pessimism index-the share of young cows that farmers slaughter for meat rather than keep for breeding. It has recently hit a three-decade high, owing to recession, drought and government price-controls.
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