"Sparkling or still?" The waiter's question seems to offer a choice, but is in fact designed to deny it: tap water, after all, is never on the menu. According to Elizabeth Royte's "Bottlemania", in 2002 Nestle produced a training manual aimed at waiters called "Pour on the Tips". Converting guests to pricey bottled water, it said, could boost their monthly earnings by $100 or more. Some waiters even try to humiliate people who resist. "I get great pleasure out of making each of those ladies who are trying to impress their friends repeat the word 'tap' back to me," wrote a server on "The Waiter's Revenge", an on-
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