Soldiers block the road from Bannu, in Pakistan's North West Frontier Province (NFWP), to Miran Shah, the capital of the North Waziristan tribal area and epicentre of an ugly war. A lorry rolls the other way, packed with refugees from fighting between the army and fundamentalist local tribesmen. "It's chaos," says a bearded fugitive. "The army is on the streets but everyone knows it's not in control."
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