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首页> 外文期刊>Estuarine Coastal and Shelf Science >The significance of ultra-refracted surface gravity waves on sheltered coasts, with application to San Francisco Bay
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The significance of ultra-refracted surface gravity waves on sheltered coasts, with application to San Francisco Bay

机译:庇护海岸超折射表面重力​​波的重要性及其在旧金山湾的应用

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Ocean surface gravity waves propagating over shallow bathymetry undergo spatial modification of propagation direction and energy density, commonly due to refraction and shoaling. If the bathymetric variations are significant the waves can undergo changes in their direction of propagation (relative to deepwater) greater than 90° over relatively short spatial scales. We refer to this phenomenon as ultra-refraction. Ultra-refracted swell waves can have a powerful influence on coastal areas that otherwise appear to be sheltered from ocean waves. Through a numerical modeling investigation it is shown that San Francisco Bay, one of the earth's largest and most protected natural harbors, is vulnerable to ultra-refracted ocean waves, particularly southwest incident swell. The flux of wave energy into San Francisco Bay results from wave transformation due to the bathymetry and orientation of the large ebb tidal delta, and deep, narrow channel through the Golden Gate. For example, ultra-refracted swell waves play a critical role in the intermittent closure of the entrance to Crissy Field Marsh, a small restored tidal wetland located on the sheltered north-facing coast approximately 1.5 km east of the Golden Gate Bridge.
机译:通常由于折射和浅滩作用,在浅水深处传播的海面重力波会经历传播方向和能量密度的空间变化。如果测深变化很大,则在相对较短的空间范围内,波浪的传播方向(相对于深水)可能会发生大于90°的变化。我们将此现象称为超折射。超折射浪潮会对沿海地区产生强大影响,否则这些地区似乎会被海浪遮挡。通过数值模型研究表明,旧金山湾是地球上最大,最受保护的自然港口之一,易受超折射海浪的影响,尤其是西南入射浪潮。波浪能量流入旧金山湾的原因是波浪变形,这是由于大潮汐三角洲的测深和方向以及穿过金门大桥的深而狭窄的通道所致。例如,超折射波在间歇性关闭Crissy Field Marsh入口方面发挥了关键作用,Crissy Field Marsh是一个小型的潮汐湿地,位于金门大桥以东约1.5公里的朝北避风港。

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