How luxury lost its lustre

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How luxury lost its lustre

机译：奢侈品如何失去光泽

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What has gone wrong with the luxury end of the cruise market? For a long time, cruising was regarded as a holiday for the wealthy and the retired, who could afford to spend weeks on end on board luxury liners, not always really bothered about what the next port of call might be. That image has now become obsolete - so much so that, despite a huge building boom, none of the cruise ships currently on the stocks caters for the luxury segment. Three of the new orders are premium ships and the rest are vessels for the contemporary or mass-market segments. Somewhere in recent decades, luxury cruising lost its way and has yielded its role as a cruise industry innovator to more down-market segments. If anything, the luxury cruise segment is about to shrink still further. Crystal Cruises, part of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha (NYK) group is about to withdraw the 1990-built 48,621gt Crystal Harmony and transfer it to the Japanese market under the NYK Cruises banner. Radisson Seven Seas' fleet has halved its fleet in two years to three ships.

机译：邮轮市场的豪华端出了什么问题？长期以来，巡航一直被认为是富人和退休者的假期，他们有能力在豪华邮轮上度过数周的假期，而并不总是真正为下一个停靠港感到困扰。这种形象现在已经过时了，以至于尽管建筑业蓬勃发展，但目前库存中没有游轮满足豪华车需求。新订单中的三艘是高级船，其余是现代或大众市场领域的船。在最近几十年的某个地方，豪华邮轮迷失了方向，并已将其作为游轮行业创新者的角色推向了更多低端市场。如果有的话，豪华邮轮市场将进一步缩小。日本邮轮公司（NYK）旗下的Crystal Cruises即将撤回1990年建造的48,621gt的Crystal Harmony，并以NYK Cruises的旗帜将其转移到日本市场。七海丽笙（Radisson Seven Seas）的船队在两年内将其船队减少了一半，降至三艘。

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《Fairplay International Shipping Weekly》 |2005年第6346期|p.16-19|共4页
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7. La banalisation du luxe (Democratization of luxury) Abstract : La plupart des achats pratiqués sont effectués par des clients occasionnels, ce qui a conduit les entreprises à s’adapter par une nouvelle stratégie. En effet, suite à l’intensification de la concurrence et à la concentration du secteur qui engendrent une contrainte de rentabilité immédiate, mais aussi en raison des impératifs nouveaux du marché, les maisons de luxe se voient obligées d’élargir leur offre afin d’ajouter à une clientèle dite traditionnelle une clientèle plus vaste. Dès lors, le secteur du luxe est progressivement passé d’une logique d’offre où seul un nombre restreint de personnes était ciblé, à une politique d’offre où des professionnels du marketing étudient la demande du marché afin d’orienter la production des biens vers un marché de masse. La banalisation est une problématique capitale et décisive car les maisons de luxe doivent préserver leur image de marque tout en élargissant leur clientèle : elles s’efforcent de créer et de pérenniser leurs marques, sans jamais oublier qu’une marque ne peut pas s’associer à n’importe quel objet, sous peine de menacer l’ensemble de ses représentations. Par conséquent, chaque nouveau produit présente un risque pour la gamme toute entière, d’où le risque d’une erreur stratégique par le choix de la banalisation. Le danger est de voir la clientèle aisée se tourner vers d’autres grands noms pratiquant toujours cet esprit d’élitisme qui caractérise le « luxe ». The luxury market is no longer reserved for an elite as its evolution over the last fifteen years clearly indicates. Luxury goods companies have been forced to adapt and resort to new strategies to take into account the fact that most purchases are now made by occasional clients. The keen competition and the on-going concentration in that sector – with the resulting short term profitability constraints - together with the new market conditions, have forced luxury goods companies to broaden their offer so as to add new customers to their traditional base. As a consequence, the luxury market has progressively moved away from an offer-driven logic – targeting a small number of people – in favor of an offer-based policy with marketing professionals studying market demand so as to direct the production of goods towards mass production. The democratization of luxury constitutes a major challenge for those companies which must preserve their image while broadening their customer base: they now strive to create and perpetuate their brand image, without ever forgetting that a brand cannot be associated to just any object, as this might constitute a threat to all its brand representations. Thus every new product constitutes a real threat to the whole range and there is a risk of making a strategic mistake by appealing to the mass market; and there is also a clear danger of seeing affluent customers turn to other great names that still foster this ‘elite spirit’ that characterizes « luxury ». [O] . Eric Vernier, Pierre Ghewy 100

机译：奢侈品的平庸化（奢侈品民主化）摘要：大多数购买都是由休闲客户制作的，这导致公司采用新战略。事实上，随着竞争的加剧和行业的集中导致了盈利的直接制约，而且由于市场的新要求，奢侈品公司被迫扩大其报价以便为所谓的传统客户增加一个更大的客户群。从那时起，奢侈品行业逐渐从以供应为导向的方式转变为只有少数人被定为供应方政策，营销人员正在研究市场需求以指导产品生产。货物进入大众市场。平庸化是一个至关重要且决定性的问题，因为豪宅必须保持其品牌形象，同时扩大其客户群：他们努力创造和延续其品牌，永远不要忘记一个品牌无法联想到在任何威胁他所有陈述的痛苦之下。因此，每个新产品都会带来整个色域的风险，因此通过选择平凡化就会产生战略错误的风险。危险的是看到富有的顾客转向其他仍在实践“豪华”特征的精英主义精神。奢侈品市场不会超过过去15年。奢侈品公司被迫采用新策略来充分利用其客户。由于市场领先的条件，激烈的竞争和该行业的持续集中迫使他们扩大了市场基础。因此，奢侈品市场已经从针对少数人的以报价驱动的逻辑向前发展 - 转而采用基于报价的政策与营销专业人士。对于那些必须在扩大客户群的同时保持形象的公司来说，奢侈品的民主化是一项重大挑战。对其所有品牌代表构成威胁。因此，每一种新产品都会对市场构成威胁，并且有可能通过吸引大众市场来制造战略错误;看到人们涌向那种“奢侈”的精神精神，也存在明显的危险。

How luxury lost its lustre

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