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Lithuanian Folk Skirts. Part I: Analysis Of Fabric Pattern

机译:立陶宛民间裙子。第一部分:织物图案分析

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摘要

Some of the most colourful parts of Lithuanian folk costume are skirls. In the past in Lithuanian tradition fabrics for skirts were woven from home-made yarns on a hand weaving loom. In these fabrics the esthetic taste, ethnocultural originality and character of Lithuanian women manifested themselves at a local and regional level. From a chronological point of view, folk fabrics show the artistic and technological evolution of the weaving tradition. In this two-part article the patterns, weaves, variety and prevalence of skirts, as well as the peculiarities of their colour combinations and weaves are investigated. The chronological and territorial distribution of pattern is also studied. The research sources are 285 exhibits from the textile collection of the Folk Art department of the National M. K. Ciurlionis Art Museum. In the analysis, the weave and combination of colours as well as other data were identified. In the first part the classification of skirl fabrics according to the fabric pattern is presented, and the quantitative distribution of pattern is indicated. Also, the peculiarities of interrelation of fabric pattern as well as the weave and characteristic combinations of colour are established. Furthermore, distribution according to the weaving period and ethnographical regions of Lithuania is analysed, paying attention to the tendencies of chronological and territorial distribution of skirt patterns.
机译:立陶宛民间服饰中最丰富多彩的部分是裙子。过去,立陶宛传统的裙子面料是用手工织机上的国产纱线织成的。在这些织物中,立陶宛妇女的审美品味,民族文化独创性和个性在地方和地区层面上得到体现。从时间的角度来看,民间织物显示出编织传统的艺术和技术演变。在这个由两部分组成的文章中,研究了裙子的图案,编织,品种和流行程度,以及它们的颜色组合和编织的特殊性。还研究了图案的时间和地域分布。研究来源是来自国家M.K. Ciurlionis美术馆民间艺术系纺织品收藏的285个展品。在分析中,确定了颜色的编织和组合以及其他数据。第一部分介绍了根据织物花型对裙型织物进行分类的方法,并指出了花型的定量分布。而且,建立了织物图案之间的相互关系的特殊性,以及织物的编织和颜色的特征组合。此外,分析了立陶宛的编织时期和人种学区域的分布情况,并注意裙摆样式的时间顺序和地域分布趋势。

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