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The soup of the scholar: food ideology and social order in Song China

机译：学者的汤：宋中国的食品思想和社会秩序

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This essay explores the food discourse elaborated by Chinese intellectuals in the Song period (960-1279) and puts forward a hypothesis concerning its social function. Starting from the Bourdieusian idea that different consumption styles support different visions of the social order, I first define luxurious eating and describe its social diffusion in Song. I then document and analyze the food ideology of frugality, characterized by an emphasis on simple cooking and naturalness as well as by a form of controlled hedonism which I call "Epicurean." Finally, I offer a sociological interpretation of this food ideology, which I understand as an expression of Song intellectuals' cultural capital: the scholars euphemistically took position against luxurious eating and the "temporal" (i.e. economic capital dominated) vision of the social order it signified; through the ideology of frugality, they supported an alternative, "spiritual" vision of society in which status is based on culture rather than wealth.
机译：本文探讨了中国知识分子在歌曲期间阐述的食品话语（960-1279），并提出了一个关于其社会功能的假设。从Bourdieusian的想法开始，不同的消费风格支持社会秩序的不同愿景，我首先定义豪华的饮食并描述其歌曲中的社会扩散。然后，我记录并分析节俭的食物思想，其特征是强调简单的烹饪和自然，以及我称之为“epicurean”的受控河床的形式。最后，我提供了这种食物意识形态的社会学解释，我认为是歌曲知识分子的文化资本的表达：学者委婉地击败豪华的饮食，“颞”（即经济资本主导地）社会秩序的愿景表示;通过节俭的意识形态，他们支持替代方案，“精神”的社会愿景，其中地位是基于文化而不是财富。

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