Restaurants: Go, Consider, Stop

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Restaurants: Go, Consider, Stop

机译：餐馆：去，考虑，停止

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Mexico City's celebrity chef Enrique Olvera's chic, cosmopolitan outpost in the Flatiron district deserves all the raves it has received. Olvera is a magician with ingredient blending, from the stunning, melting textures of the sea urchin tostada with bone marrow salsa to the clove-inflected mussel tostada with pig's feet to the sensational crispy octopus with hazelnut mole pickled potatoes. Eight years ago Dovetail redefined dining on the Upper West Side, and it has garnered chef John Fraser multiple Michelin stars for his efforts. Recently there have been hints that it's coasting on its laurels: bad service, tiny portions and dish after ho-hum dish whose executions are forgotten as soon as the plates leave the table. Here's hoping for a second wind.

机译：墨西哥城的名厨恩里克·奥尔维拉（Enrique Olvera）在熨斗区的时尚，国际化的前哨基地应有的好评如潮。 Olvera是一名魔术师，融合了各种成分，从海胆炸玉米粉圆饼配以骨髓辣酱的惊人，融化的质地，到丁香弯曲的猪脚贻贝白粉玉米饼，配以榛子痣腌制的土豆制成的香脆酥脆章鱼。八年前，燕尾餐厅重新定义了在上西区的就餐场所，该餐厅获得了厨师约翰·弗雷泽（John Fraser）多次获得米其林星的殊荣。最近，有迹象表明，它正在桂冠上滑行：糟糕的服务，细小的部分和一盘又一盘的嗡嗡声，一旦盘子离开桌子，它们的执行力就被忘记了。希望再来一阵风。

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《Forbes》 |2016年第3期|12-12|共1页
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收录信息美国《科学引文索引》(SCI);
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正文语种 eng
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Restaurants: Go, Consider, Stop

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