After the Maldives, all blues look pale. In this vast archipelago southwest of India, the colors of the sea and sky infuse everything. The ocean itself is ultramarine and window clear: In the Raa Atoll I watched a hawksbill sea turtle descend languidly down the reef wall—60, 70, 80 feet— obfbre finally evaporating into the lapis deep. Color experts say that blue is balm for the spirit, a kind of visual sedative. I am a believer. On more than one occasion during the month I spent among the Maldives' luxurious private-island resorts I lost track of the day and date for extended stretches at a time.
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