From a seaplane it looks like and adirondack Great Camp air-dropped into the British Columbian wilderness. The Inside Passage points a cold fjord-like finger at its front door. Behind it, to the east, the white teeth of the coastal range gnaw on a narrow neck of powder-blue sky. Our plane skims the malachite surface of the cove. Instead of a crowded marina, the only man-made structure is King Pacific Lodge, a floating five-star hotel 400 air miles north of Vancouver, anchored to the lip of one of the world's largest temperate rain forests.
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