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The aesthetic politics of taste: Producing extra virgin olive oil in Jordan

机译：味道的美学政治：在约旦生产特级初榨橄榄油

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Extra virginity as a standard is predicated on a chemical and sensory evaluation according to the parameters set by the International Olive Council. Though a rich literature examines how food and agricultural standards are implemented in local contexts, little work has assessed how certifications redefine the local aesthetic experience of the food. In order to fill this gap, I analyze the aesthetic politics, which redefine who can taste and how they can do it. I argue that incorporating aesthetic politics into analyses of quality and standards enables tracing how this standard becomes regarded as scientific and, return, effects a re-aestheticizing of what is considered a(n) (il) legitimate taste. This re-aestheticization redefines 'best practices' in olive oil production, according to the new aesthetic. This particular configuration of the sensorial experience of olive oil, through its dissemination and employment as part of international-funded capacity building efforts, has social and environmental consequences across Jordan. In sum, this paper-based on 15 months of qualitative fieldwork with farmers, NGOs, mill employees, mill owners, and government officials in the Jordanian olive oil industry-explores how basic taste standards for extra virgin olive oil are discursively instilled in sensory evaluations and physically produced in farm and mill management practices. By tracing these processes, this paper furthers our understanding of how seemingly apolitical, scientific standards travel across scales and affect the ways in which people experience taste.
机译：根据国际橄榄理事会设定的参数，以化学和感官评估为基础来确定处女的标准。尽管有大量文献研究了如何在当地环境中实施食品和农业标准，但很少有工作评估认证如何重新定义了食品的当地审美体验。为了填补这一空白，我分析了审美政治，重新定义了谁可以品尝以及如何品尝。我认为，将审美政治纳入质量和标准的分析中可以追踪该标准如何被视为科学的，并由此对所谓的（n）（il）合法品味进行重新美化。根据新美学，这种重新审美化重新定义了橄榄油生产中的“最佳实践”。橄榄油的感官体验的这种特殊配置，通过其传播和使用作为国际资助的能力建设工作的一部分，在整个约旦产生了社会和环境影响。总而言之，本文基于约旦橄榄油行业与农民，非政府组织，工厂员工，工厂老板和政府官员进行的15个月的定性实地考察，探讨了如何在感官评估中将无用橄榄油的基本口味标准灌输给他人并在农场和工厂管理实践中实际生产。通过追踪这些过程，本文使我们进一步了解了看似非政治性的科学标准如何跨尺度传播并影响人们体验品味的方式。

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