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首页> 外文期刊>Geoforum >Cotton certification in Ethiopia: Can an increasing demand for certified textiles create a 'fashion revolution'?
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Cotton certification in Ethiopia: Can an increasing demand for certified textiles create a 'fashion revolution'?

机译：埃塞俄比亚的棉花认证：对认证纺织品的需求增加是否会引发“时尚革命”？

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摘要

Ethiopia is witnessing a cotton revival. Voluntary certification programs, such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), promise to ensure the sustainability of this development. When advertising certification, companies call upon consumers to 'join the fashion revolution' and overcome grievances of 'dirty fashion'. We are interested in the types of relations through which certification initiatives can facilitate a transition to greater sustainability. So far, scholars have shown that sustainability certification emerges from a neoliberal agenda and therefore reproduces asymmetries. Complementing these studies, we make a strong claim for acknowledging the capacity of agency or agents in the debate about power in certification. For this purpose, we use concepts of power to (empowerment and resistance) and power with (cooperation and learning) to explore the two cases of GOTS and CmiA. Both concepts represent different forms of exercising power and bringing about change. We find that GOTS offers consumers the opportunity to alter their position. They have the power to establish an alternative (niche) system of ethical trade. By contrast, CmiA represents power with conventional producers, retailers and consumers. This certification initiative can be considered less radical, but it has a much better market outreach. While we argue that only certification that demands the creation of alternative market structures can be a starting point for a 'revolutionary' transition, we also see a need for the conventional industry to change in countries such as Ethiopia.
机译：埃塞俄比亚正在见证棉花的复兴。自愿性认证计划，例如全球有机纺织品标准（GOTS）和非洲制造的棉花（CmiA），有望确保这一发展的可持续性。在进行广告认证时，公司呼吁消费者“加入时尚革命”并克服“肮脏时尚”的不满。我们对通过认证计划可以促进向更大可持续性过渡的关系类型感兴趣。到目前为止，学者们已经表明，可持续性认证源于新自由主义的议程，因此再现了不对称性。作为对这些研究的补充，我们强烈主张在有关认证权力的辩论中承认代理商或代理商的能力。为此，我们使用权力（赋予和抵抗）和权力与（合作与学习）的概念来探讨GOTS和CmiA的两种情况。这两个概念代表行使权力和带来变化的不同形式。我们发现，GOTS为消费者提供了改变其位置的机会。他们有权建立替代的（小众）道德贸易体系。相比之下，CmiA代表了传统生产商，零售商和消费者的力量。可以认为该认证计划不太激进，但是具有更好的市场推广范围。尽管我们认为只有要求建立替代市场结构的认证才可以成为“革命性”过渡的起点，但我们也看到传统行业需要在埃塞俄比亚等国进行变革。

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  • 来源
    《Geoforum》 |2019年第2期|111-119|共9页
  • 作者

    Partzsch Lena; Kemper Laura;

  • 作者单位

    Univ Freiburg, Sustainabil Governance, Tennenbacher Str 4, D-79106 Freiburg, Germany;

    Univ Freiburg, Sustainabil Governance, Tennenbacher Str 4, D-79106 Freiburg, Germany;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
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  • 关键词

    Cotton; Certification; Ethiopia; Organic; Power; Textiles;

    机译：棉花;认证;埃塞俄比亚;有机;电力;纺织;

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