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Designing with stretch fabrics

机译：用弹力面料设计

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摘要

Loose fitting garments can accommodate a greater number of different bodyshapes but close fitting garments cannot. The assumption is that stretch garments will automatically stretch in the right places to give an acceptable fit and provide comfort as well as ease of movement. But this is a fundamental misunderstanding of stretch fabric characteristics and garment pattern geometry. To date the garment industry has focused on speeding up, through the use of CAD systems, empirical pattern construction methods which developed through custom and practice. This subjective approach has significant limitations, particularly when applied to stretch pattern design it is inappropriate for today's technology. A brief overview of current pattern technology has been presented in this paper. The factors considered in developing stretch pattern technology include digitally quantifying the degree of fabric stretch and an objective approach for assessing stretch fit. The aim of the study is to make the process of stretch pattern construction more transparent in CAD applications for the designer/technician, fabric technologist and global manufacturer, and ultimately to offer better fitting and more comfortable garments for the customer.
机译：宽松的衣服可以容纳更多种不同的体形，而紧身的衣服则不能。假设弹力服装将在合适的位置自动弹力，以提供可接受的合身性，舒适性和移动性。但这是对弹力织物特性和服装图案几何形状的根本误解。迄今为止，服装行业一直致力于通过使用CAD系统来加快通过习惯和实践开发的经验模式构建方法。这种主观方法有很大的局限性，特别是当应用于拉伸图案设计时，它不适用于当今的技术。本文介绍了当前的模式技术。在开发拉伸图案技术中考虑的因素包括数字化量化织物拉伸程度和评估拉伸合身性的客观方法。该研究的目的是使拉伸图案的构建过程在CAD应用程序中对设计师/技术人员，织物技术人员和全球制造商更透明，并最终为客户提供更好的合身性和更舒适的服装。

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