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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of design history >The Pursuit of Art and Professionalism: Dressmaking, Millinery, and Costume Design at Pratt Institute, 1888-1904
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The Pursuit of Art and Professionalism: Dressmaking, Millinery, and Costume Design at Pratt Institute, 1888-1904

机译：对艺术和专业的追求：普拉特学院的制衣，女帽和服装设计，1888-1904年

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摘要

The first sixteen years of the Pratt Institute Department of Domestic Art-one of the earliest programmes of its kind-were characterized by continual reorganization and shifting purposes. The department initially set out to prepare women for housework or industrial work while promoting a reform of women's fashion and aligning itself with the Arts and Crafts movement. Over the years, the department increasingly associated dressmaking and millinery with art. Eventually, inspired by the Domestic Art department's relationship with the Art Department and the teachings of Arthur Wesley Dow, the Domestic Art faculty cautiously embraced fashion and industrialization. A separation between the conceptual designing and physical making of dress took place, and curricular developments reiterated the widely established hierarchy of art, design, and craft. By the early twentieth century, the Domestic Art department was committed to forming its students into intellectual and business-minded professional artists. This paper argues that the ideology and efforts of the Domestic Art faculty during Pratt's formative years intended to legitimize the image of dressmaking, millinery, and costume design. The continual attempt to garner respect for the work taught in the department reflects women's changing place in society and sheds light on understudied aspects of contemporary design movements.
机译：普氏学院国内艺术系最初的十六年（此类计划最早）之一，其特点是不断进行重组和不断变化的宗旨。该部门最初着手准备妇女从事家务或工业工作，同时促进妇女时尚的改革并使其与手工艺运动保持一致。多年来，该部门越来越多地将制衣和女帽与艺术联系起来。最终，受国内艺术系与艺术系的关系以及亚瑟·卫斯理·道（Arthur Wesley Dow）的启发，国内艺术系谨慎地接受了时装和工业化。服装的概念设计和物理制作之间发生了分离，课程的发展重申了广泛建立的艺术，设计和手工艺层次。到20世纪初，国内艺术系致力于将其学生培养成知识分子和具有商业头脑的专业艺术家。本文认为，普拉特（Pratt）形成初期的国内艺术学院的思想和努力旨​​在使制衣，女帽和服装设计的形象合法化。不断努力争取尊重该部门教授的工作，这反映了妇女在社会中的地位不断变化，并阐明了当代设计运动中未被充分研究的方面。

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