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Case study of the transformation of swells propagating into Sendai Bay

机译：涌入仙台湾的浪潮改造案例研究

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摘要

A high-resolution two-dimensional map of swell wavelength and propagating direction was retrieved from a phased array type L-band synthetic aperture radar scene observed on 24 September 2006 over Sendai Bay in the Tohoku region of Japan. Features of the wavelength map were compared with a wavelength map calculated from in situ measurements of the swell period using infinitesimal amplitude surface wave theory. The maps corresponded well in most areas, although large differences appeared in the near-shore area (area Ⅰ) and an area of complicated bottom topography (area Ⅱ). Because the spatial resolution of swell parameters was too coarse to investigate the surface waves in area 1, wavelet transform (WT) was applied along a swell ray to improve the spatial resolution. In the resulting WT wavelength map, the large difference in area I disappeared. For area II, perturbation theory was introduced for surface waves propagating obliquely on a gentle slope. The large wavelength difference in area II was well explained by the second-order solution of perturbation theory.
机译：从2006年9月24日在日本东北地区仙台湾观测到的相控阵型L波段合成孔径雷达场景中，获得了一个高分辨波长和传播方向的高分辨率二维图。将波长图的特征与使用无限小振幅表面波理论从膨胀周期的原位测量中计算出的波长图进行了比较。尽管在近岸地区（Ⅰ区）和复杂的底部地形区（Ⅱ区）差异较大，但大多数地区的地图都吻合得很好。由于溶胀参数的空间分辨率太粗糙，无法研究区域1中的表面波，因此沿溶胀射线应用小波变换（WT）来提高空间分辨率。在所得的WT波长图中，面积I的较大差异消失了。对于II区，引入了在平缓斜坡上倾斜传播的表面波的摄动理论。扰动理论的二阶解很好地解释了区域II中的大波长差异。

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