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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Physical Oceanography >Wave Setup over a Fringing Reef with Large Bottom Roughness
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Wave Setup over a Fringing Reef with Large Bottom Roughness

机译：底部粗糙度较大的边缘礁上的波浪设置

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The effect of bottom roughness on setup dynamics was investigated using high-resolution observations across a laboratory fringing reef profile with roughness elements scaled to mimic the frictional wave dissipation of a coral reef. Results with roughness were compared with smooth bottom runs across 16 offshore wave and still water level conditions. The time-averaged and depth-integrated force balance was evaluated from observations collected at 17 locations along the flume and consisted of cross-shore pressure and radiation stress gradients whose sum was balanced by quadratic mean bottom stresses. The introduction of roughness had two primary effects. First, for runs with roughness, frictional wave dissipation occurred on the reef slope offshore of the breakpoint, reducing wave heights prior to wave breaking. Second, offshore-directed mean bottom stresses were generated by the interaction of the combined wave-current velocity field with the roughness elements. These two mechanisms acted counter to one another. Frictional wave dissipation resulted in radiation stress gradients that were predicted to generate 18% (on average) less setup on the reef flat for rough runs than for smooth runs when neglecting mean bottom stresses. However, mean bottom stresses increased the predicted setup by 16% on average for runs with roughness. As a result, setup on the reef flat was comparable (7% mean difference) between corresponding rough and smooth runs. These findings are used to assess prior results from numerical modeling studies of reefs and also to discuss the broader implications for how large roughness influences setup dynamics in the nearshore zone.
机译：在实验室边缘珊瑚礁剖面上使用高分辨率观察结果，研究了底部粗糙度对设置动力学的影响，其中粗糙度元素的大小可模拟珊瑚礁的摩擦波消散。将具有粗糙度的结果与在16个海上波浪和静止水位条件下的平滑底部运行进行比较。从沿水槽的17个位置收集的观测值评估了时间平均和深度综合的力平衡，该平衡包括跨岸压力和辐射应力梯度，其总和由二次平均底部应力平衡。粗糙度的引入具有两个主要作用。首先，对于具有粗糙度的运行，摩擦波消散发生在断点外的礁石斜坡上，从而降低了波浪破碎前的波浪高度。其次，通过组合波流速度场与粗糙度元素的相互作用产生了海上定向的平均底部应力。这两种机制相互抵触。摩擦波的耗散导致辐射应力梯度，当忽略平均底部应力时，与平流相比，粗糙运行的礁石平台上产生的辐射应力梯度平均要少18％（平均）。但是，对于有粗糙度的运行，平均底部应力会使预测设置平均提高16％。结果，在礁滩上的设置在相应的粗糙运行和平滑运行之间相当（平均差异为7％）。这些发现被用于评估珊瑚礁数值模拟研究的先前结果，并讨论更大的粗糙度对大粗糙度如何影响近岸带动态的影响。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2016年第8期|2317-2333|共17页
  • 作者

    Buckley Mark L.; Lowe Ryan J.; Hansen Jeff E.; Van Dongeren R.;

  • 作者单位

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA, Australia|Univ Western Australia, ARC Ctr Excellence Coral Reef Studies, Crawley, WA, Australia;

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA, Australia|Univ Western Australia, ARC Ctr Excellence Coral Reef Studies, Crawley, WA, Australia;

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA, Australia;

    Deltares, Dept AMO, Unit ZKS, Delft, Netherlands;

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