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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Physical Oceanography >Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef
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Dynamics of Wave Setup over a Steeply Sloping Fringing Reef

机译：陡峭边缘鱼礁上波浪建立的动力学

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摘要

High-resolution observations from a 55-m-long wave flume were used to investigate the dynamics of wave setup over a steeply sloping reef profile with a bathymetry representative of many fringing coral reefs. The 16 runs incorporating a wide range of offshore wave conditions and still water levels were conducted using a 1:36 scaled fringing reef, with a 1:5 slope reef leading to a wide and shallow reef flat. Wave setdown and setup observations measured at 17 locations across the fringing reef were compared with a theoretical balance between the local cross-shore pressure and wave radiation stress gradients. This study found that when radiation stress gradients were calculated from observations of the radiation stress derived from linear wave theory, both wave setdown and setup were underpredicted for the majority of wave and water level conditions tested. These underpredictions were most pronounced for cases with larger wave heights and lower still water levels (i.e., cases with the greatest setdown and setup). Inaccuracies in the predicted setdown and setup were improved by including a wave-roller model, which provides a correction to the kinetic energy predicted by linear wave theory for breaking waves and produces a spatial delay in the wave forcing that was consistent with the observations.
机译：来自55米长的波浪水槽的高分辨率观测资料被用来研究在陡峭倾斜的礁石剖面上的波浪形成动力学，其测深法代表了许多边缘珊瑚礁。 16道试验采用了广泛的海上波浪条件，并且静水位使用了1:36比例尺的礁石进行，倾斜礁石的1：5形成了宽而浅的礁石平台。比较了在礁石两端17个地点测得的波落和观测结果，并与局部跨岸压力和波辐射应力梯度之间的理论平衡进行了比较。这项研究发现，当根据线性波理论得出的辐射应力观测值计算出辐射应力梯度时，对于大多数测试的波浪和水位条件，均会低估波浪的形成和建立。对于波高较高且静水位较低的情况（即沉降和设置最大的情况），这些预测不足最为明显。包括波轮模型，可改善预计下沉和建立过程中的不准确性，该模型可校正线性波理论预测的动能来破坏波浪，并在波浪强迫中产生与观测值一致的空间延迟。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2015年第12期|3005-3023|共19页
  • 作者

    Buckley Mark L.; Lowe Ryan J.; Hansen Jeff E.; Van Dongeren Ap R.;

  • 作者单位

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, ARC Ctr Excellence Coral Reef Studies, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, ARC Ctr Excellence Coral Reef Studies, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

    Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia|Univ Western Australia, Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia;

    Deltares, Dept AMO, Unit ZKS, Delft, Netherlands;

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  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类
  • 关键词

    Circulation; Dynamics; Wave breaking; Wave properties; Waves; oceanic; Wind waves;

    机译：循环;动力学;波浪破碎;波浪性质;波浪;海洋;风浪;

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