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The Evolution of Inhomogeneous Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium

机译：可变介质中非均匀波统计的演变

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摘要

The interaction of ocean waves with variable currents and topography in coastal areas can result in in-homogeneous statistics because of coherent interferences, which affect wave-driven circulation and transport processes. Stochastic wave models, invariably based on some form of the radiative transfer equation (or action balance), do not account for these effects. The present work develops and discusses a generalization of the radiative transfer equation that includes the effects of coherent interferences on wave statistics. Using multiple scales, the study approximates the transport equation for the (complete) second-order wave correlation matrix. The resulting model transports the coupled-mode spectrum (a form of the Wigner distribution) and accounts for the generation and propagation of coherent interferences in a variable medium. The authors validate the model through comparison with analytic solutions and laboratory observations, discuss the differences with the radiative transfer equation and the limitations of this approximation, and illustrate its ability to resolve coherent interference structures in wave fields such as those typically found in refractive focal zones and around obstacles.
机译：由于相干干扰，海浪与沿海地区可变电流和地形的相互作用会导致统计数据不均匀，从而影响了波浪驱动的循环和运输过程。随机波模型始终基于某种形式的辐射传递方程式（或作用平衡），并未考虑这些影响。本工作发展并讨论了辐射传递方程的推广，其中包括相干干涉对波统计的影响。该研究使用多个尺度对（完整的）二阶波相关矩阵的输运方程进行了近似。所得模型传输耦合模式频谱（维格纳分布的一种形式），并说明在可变介质中相干干扰的产生和传播。作者通过与解析解和实验室观察结果进行比较来验证该模型，讨论与辐射传递方程的差异以及该近似方法的局限性，并说明其解决波场中相干干涉结构（例如通常在折射焦点区域中发现的相干干涉结构）的能力。和周围的障碍。

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  • 来源
    《Journal of Physical Oceanography》 |2013年第8期|1741-1758|共18页
  • 作者

    P. B. Smit; T. T. Janssen;

  • 作者单位

    Environmental Fluid Mechanics, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1,2628 CN Delft, Netherlands;

    Theiss Research, El Granada, California;

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