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Spatial Statistics of the Sea Surface in Fetch-Limited Conditions

机译：提取限制条件下海面的空间统计

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An analysis of airborne wave observations collected in the Gulf of Tehuantepec is presented. The data include lidar measurements of the surface displacement as a function of two horizontal dimensions in fetch-limited conditions, with fetches between 20 and 500 km and winds between 10 and 20 m s~(-1). The spatial data have an advantage over the commonly used single-point time series measurements, allowing direct estimates of the wavelength and wave slope, including spatial information such as the lengths of crests exceeding various thresholds. This study presents an analysis of several statistical wind wave parameters, including the joint probability distribution function (pdf) of wave amplitudes and wavelengths; the pdf of wave heights, wave-number vectors, and wave slopes; as well as the statistics of the lengths of crests exceeding threshold wave heights and slopes. The empirical findings from the lidar data are compared against analytical theories in the literature, including some that had not been tested previously with field data such as the work by M. S. Longuet-Higgins describing the length of contours surrounding large wave heights per unit surface area. The effect of second-order nonlinearities on the distribution of crest lengths per unit surface area is investigated with analytical approximations and stochastic numerical simulations from computed directional wavenumber spectra. The results show that second-order nonlinearities can increase the crest-length distribution of large waves by a factor of 2 or more.
机译：介绍了在Tehuantepec海湾收集的空中波观测资料的分析。数据包括在获取受限的条件下，两个获取范围为20至500 km，风力为10至20 m s〜（-1）时作为两个水平方向的函数的表面位移的激光雷达测量。空间数据相对于常用的单点时间序列测量具有优势，可以直接估计波长和波的斜率，包括空间信息，例如波峰的长度超过各种阈值。这项研究对几种统计的风波参数进行了分析，包括波幅和波长的联合概率分布函数（pdf）。波高，波数矢量和波斜率的pdf；以及超过阈值波高和斜率的波峰长度统计数据。将激光雷达数据的经验发现与文献中的分析理论进行了比较，包括一些先前尚未通过现场数据进行检验的理论，例如M.S.Longuet-Higgins的工作，描述了单位表面积大波高周围的轮廓长度。利用解析近似和计算出的方向波数谱的随机数值模拟，研究了二阶非线性对单位表面积波峰长度分布的影响。结果表明，二阶非线性可以使大波的波峰长度分布增加2倍或更多倍。

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