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首页> 外文期刊>Journal of Physical Oceanography >Influence of Mean Water Depth and a Subsurface Sandbar on the Onset and Strength of Wave Breaking
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Influence of Mean Water Depth and a Subsurface Sandbar on the Onset and Strength of Wave Breaking

机译：平均水深和地下沙洲对波浪爆发和强度的影响

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摘要

Wave breaking in the open ocean and coastal zones remains an intriguing yet incompletely understood process, with a strong observed association with wave groups. Recent numerical study of the evolution of fully nonlinear, two-dimensional deep water wave groups identified a robust threshold of a diagnostic growth-rate parameter that separated nonlinear wave groups that evolved to breaking from those that evolved with recurrence. This paper investigates whether these deep water wave-breaking results apply more generally, particularly in finite-water-depth conditions. For unforced nonlinear wave groups in intermediate water depths over a flat bottom, it was found that the upper bound of the diagnostic growth-rate threshold parameter established for deep water wave groups is also applicable in intermediate water depths, given by k_0h ≥ 2, where k_0 is the mean carrier wavenumber and h is the mean depth. For breaking onset over an idealized circular arc sandbar located on an otherwise flat, intermediate-depth (k_0h ≥ 2) environment, the deep water breaking diagnostic growth rate was found to be applicable provided that the height of the sandbar is less than one-quarter of the ambient mean water depth. Thus, for-this range of intermediate-depth conditions, these two classes of bottom topography modify only marginally the diagnostic growth rate found for deep water waves. However, when intermediate-depth wave groups (k_0h ≥ 2) shoal over a sandbar whose height exceeds one-half of the ambient water depth, the waves can steepen significantly without breaking. In such cases, the breaking threshold level and the maximum of the diagnostic growth rate increase systematically with the height of the sandbar. Also, the dimensions and position of the sandbar influenced the evolution and breaking threshold of wave groups. For sufficiently high sandbars, the effects of bottom topography can induce additional nonlinearity into the wave field geometry and associated dynamics that modifies the otherwise robust deep water breaking-threshold results.
机译：在开放的海洋和沿海地区，海浪破裂仍然是一个有趣但尚未完全理解的过程，与海浪群之间的联系很强。对完全非线性的二维深水波群的演化进行的最新数值研究确定了诊断增长率参数的可靠阈值，该阈值可将演化为破裂的非线性波群与循环演化的非线性波群分开。本文研究了这些深水破碎波结果是否更普遍地适用，尤其是在有限水深条件下。对于平坦底部中间水深中的非受力非线性波群，发现为深水波群建立的诊断增长率阈值参数的上限也适用于中间水深，k_0h≥2，其中k_0是平均载波数，h是平均深度。对于位于平坦，中等深度（k_0h≥2）环境上的理想化圆弧沙洲的破土动工，发现只要沙洲的高度小于四分之一，则深水破断诊断增长率是适用的平均水深的平均值。因此，对于该范围的中间深度条件，这两类底部地形仅略微改变了深水波的诊断增长率。但是，当中深度波组（k_0h≥2）在高度超过环境水深一半的沙洲上浅滩时，这些波会明显变陡而不会破裂。在这种情况下，突破阈值水平和诊断增长率的最大值会随着沙洲的高度而系统地增加。同样，沙洲的尺寸和位置也会影响波浪群的演化和破裂阈值。对于足够高的沙洲，底部地形的影响会在波场几何形状和相关的动力学中引起额外的非线性，从而改变原本稳健的深水破坏阈值结果。

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