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首页> 外文期刊>The Journal of the Textile Institute >Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness
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Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

机译：不同纤维曲率，羊绒含量和针织紧密度的超细羊毛织物的织物手感性能

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摘要

The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 mu m) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74 degrees/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49 degrees/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.
机译：研究了由不同纤维曲率（114 vs. 74度/ mm）的超细羊毛（17微米）与羊绒（纤维曲率49度/ mm）混合制成的单面针织物的手感性能。羊绒有四种混合比例（0％，25％，50％，75％）和100％羊绒。九种纤维共混物组合中的每一种均重复三次，然后分别编织为三个紧密度因子。使用羊毛手感仪评估了81种织物，该织物可测量7种主要手感属性和总体手感，并由专家小组和各种商业织物进行了校准。结果通过ANOVA和一般线性建模进行分析。紧密度系数显着影响了所有Wool HandleMeter属性值，紧密度系数的影响随手柄属性而变化。 Wool HandleMeter能够检测出纤维曲率不同的超细羊毛制成的织物之间的差异，与某些或所有紧密度因素相比，较低纤维曲率的羊毛织物具有更好的总体手感和更柔软，更宽松，更凉爽，更轻和更干燥的手感属性纤维曲率较高的超细羊毛制成的织物。逐步将羊绒与羊毛混纺可显着改善总体手感，增加柔软和光滑的手感，减少干燥，沉重和紧绷的手感。线性回归模型表明，单位面积的织物质量可以解释整个织物手感变化的50％以上，再加上织物厚度和纱线伸长率的变化，可以解释总体手感变化的71％。

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