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首页> 外文期刊>The Journal of the Textile Institute >A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics
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A comparative study on seam performance of cotton and polyester woven fabrics

机译：棉涤织物接缝性能的比较研究

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摘要

This paper presents and compares the seam performance of 12 woven fabrics by means of seam strength, seam efficiency, seam pucker, seam slippage properties, and visual observations. Besides, seam profiles were prepared by using normalized values. Test fabrics, suitable for clothing and lining, having cotton and polyester fibers in content and woven systematically in weft setting and weave structure were utilized and sewn by two different sewing threads. All the evaluations were conducted in terms of weave, weft setting, and sewing thread separately. Experimental results reveal that the cotton fabrics sewn with any kind of sewing thread have similar seam efficiency values. The fabrics stitched with corespun polyester sewing thread show higher seam efficiency values. Despite this, low seam efficiency values were obtained for the polyester fabrics. Seam slippage of 6 mm is over 200 N tensile load for the cotton fabrics. In the case of the polyester fabrics, it is difficult to determine seam slippage because of breakage of the yarns and the sewing threads and stripping problems close to seam line. Especially for polyester fabrics, worse seam pucker properties have been observed as compared with the ones stitched with mercerized cotton sewing thread. Generally, twill fabrics show lower seam pucker values for all types of the test fabrics.
机译：本文通过接缝强度，接缝效率，接缝褶皱，接缝滑移特性和肉眼观察来介绍和比较12种机织织物的接缝性能。此外，通过使用归一化值来准备接缝轮廓。使用了试验性织物，该织物适合于衣物和衬里，其含量为棉和聚酯纤维，并且在纬纱定型和编织结构中系统地编织，并通过两种不同的缝纫线缝制。所有评估均分别在织法，纬纱定型和缝纫线方面进行。实验结果表明，用任何一种缝纫线缝制的棉织物具有相似的接缝效率值。用包芯涤纶缝纫线缝制的织物显示出更高的接缝效率值。尽管如此，对于聚酯织物仍获得低的接缝效率值。棉织物的6 mm接缝滑移超过200 N拉伸负荷。在聚酯织物的情况下，由于纱线和缝纫线的断裂以及接近接缝线的剥离问题，难以确定接缝滑动。尤其是对于聚酯织物，与用丝光棉缝纫线缝制的缝隙相比，接缝起皱性能更差。通常，对于所有类型的测试织物，斜纹织物都显示较低的接缝褶皱值。

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