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首页> 外文期刊>The Journal of the Textile Institute >Effect of seam angle on seam puckering in lightweight woven fabrics
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Effect of seam angle on seam puckering in lightweight woven fabrics

机译：接缝角度对轻质机织织物接缝起皱的影响

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摘要

Displacement puckering is the major cause of seam puckering, while sewing lightweight woven fabrics. In this paper, effect of seam angle (0°-90° to the weft) on the seam puckering has been studied for cotton and polyester fabrics at different stitch lengths. Puckering is estimated by measuring a difference between the thickness of seamed and unseamed fabrics. It is observed that seam puckering decreases and then increases as the seam angle to the weft increases. Seam puckering is the lowest at seam angle of 30° for cotton fabrics and 69 g/m~2 polyester fabric; at 45° for 88 g/m~2 polyester fabrics, depending upon the warp and weft yarns covered in the seam and yarn linear densities, which can be represented as effective relative cover. Seam puckering is the lowest at a seam angle, when the effective relative cover is highest.
机译：缝制轻质梭织织物时，起皱皱褶是接缝皱褶的主要原因。本文研究了不同针迹长度的棉和涤纶织物的接缝角度（与纬线成0°-90°）对接缝起皱的影响。通过测量接缝和未接缝织物厚度之间的差异来估计起皱。观察到，随着与纬线的接缝角度增加，接缝皱褶减少，然后增加。对于棉织物和69 g / m〜2的涤纶织物，在30°的接缝角处接缝起皱最低。对于88 g / m〜2的涤纶织物，在45°时，取决于接缝中覆盖的经纱和纬纱以及纱线的线密度，这可以表示为有效的相对覆盖率。当有效相对覆盖率最高时，接缝褶皱在接缝角处最低。

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