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首页> 外文期刊>The Journal of the Textile Institute >Descriptive differential attributes of type of fleeces in llama fibre and its textile consequence. Part 2: consequences of the dehairing process
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Descriptive differential attributes of type of fleeces in llama fibre and its textile consequence. Part 2: consequences of the dehairing process

机译：美洲驼纤维中羊毛类型的描述性差异属性及其纺织结果。第2部分：脱毛过程的后果

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摘要

One of the quality characteristics most demanded from animal fibres is skin comfort or the effect the garment fibres have on the wearer's skin. This comfort (or absence) is the product of the quantity of protruding fibre ends in contact with the epidermis. The fibre of mixed fleeces (fine and coarse fibres), such as llama fleeces, requires a special textile process for the garments made from them to be comfortable. This process is known as dehairing. It has different effects according to the fleece type used. Dehairing results in the structural change of the raw material since it extracts the coarser, longer and straighter (objectionable) fibres, thus affecting the rest of the textile processing, whether worsted or woollen. This research was designed to test the effect of fleece types on llama fibre dehairing performance, yield, bulk and sensorial attributes. Lustre fleeces have less bulk capacity and double-coated fleeces, a lower overall yield due to a higher coarse fibre dehairing loss. Dehairing reduces the 'prickle' sensation, fundamentally with double-coated fleeces and less notably with single-coated non-lustre fleeces, whereas with lustre fleeces no effect is detected. These results show that fibre classification by fleece type is fundamental when processing Argentine llama fibres.
机译：动物纤维最需要的质量特征之一是皮肤舒适性或服装纤维对穿着者皮肤的影响。这种舒适度（或不舒适度）是与表皮接触的突出纤维末端数量的乘积。混合羊毛（细纤维和粗纤维）的纤维，例如美洲驼毛，需要特殊的纺织工艺才能使制成的衣服舒适。此过程称为脱毛。根据使用的羊毛类型，其效果不同。脱毛会导致原料的结构发生变化，因为它会提取出更粗，更长，更直（有害）的纤维，从而影响其余的纺织工艺，无论是精纺还是毛纺。这项研究旨在测试羊毛类型对美洲驼毛脱毛性能，产量，膨松度和感官属性的影响。光泽绒毛的散装容量和双面涂层绒毛较少，由于较高的粗纤维脱毛损失而导致总产量较低。脱毛减少了“刺痒”的感觉，从根本上讲，双面涂层的羊毛非常少见，单面涂层的无光泽羊毛则没有那么明显，而光泽光泽的羊毛则没有任何作用。这些结果表明，在处理阿根廷骆驼纤维时，按羊毛类型对纤维进行分类至关重要。

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