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首页> 外文期刊>The Journal of the Textile Institute >Influence of polyester fibre fineness and cross-sectional shape on low-stress characteristics of fabrics
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Influence of polyester fibre fineness and cross-sectional shape on low-stress characteristics of fabrics

机译：聚酯纤维细度和截面形状对织物低应力特性的影响

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摘要

The paper presents the results of the investigations made on 2/1 twill fabrics made from polyester and polyester-blended yarns to appreciate the role of constituent polyester fibre fineness and profiles in deciding their handle, appearance and performance in garment manufacturing operations. Three different polyester fibre profiles, trilobal, scalloped oval and tetrakelion, along with circular were chosen and linear density of circular fibre was varied for this investigation. The objective measurements were performed with Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) system for evaluation of handle and tailoring performance by extracting information about deformations (i.e. compression, extensibility, bending and shear) in the fabrics. Fabrics' physical and mechanical parameters were shown to be altered by fibre form (fineness and cross-sectional shapes). Higher fibre denier leads to higher values of all four mechanical characteristics and results in higher formability. The influence of cross-section is very specific. Trilobal and tetrakelion, being stiffer and produce bulky yarn, resulting in stiffer fabrics with higher formability compared to their comparable circular fibre fabrics. Scalloped oval fibres, because of their less bending and torsion rigidities, produce fabric of low rigidity and formability but moderate compressibility and high extensibility. Mixing of polyester and viscose tends to reduce the stiffness (both bending and shear) but improves extensibility and formability.
机译：本文介绍了对由涤纶和涤纶混纺纱制成的2/1斜纹织物进行调查的结果，以了解聚酯纤维细度和轮廓在决定其手感，外观和服装制造操作中的作用。选择三种不同的聚酯纤维轮廓，三叶形，扇贝形的椭圆形和四线形以及圆形，并改变圆形纤维的线密度以进行此项研究。客观测量是通过简单测试的织物保证（FAST）系统进行的，以通过提取有关织物变形（即压缩，伸长，弯曲和剪切）的信息来评估手感和剪裁性能。纤维的形态（细度和横截面形状）会改变织物的物理和机械参数。较高的纤维旦尼尔会导致较高的所有四个机械特性值，并导致较高的可成形性。横截面的影响非常具体。与同等的圆形纤维织物相比，三叶形和四纤维增强了硬度，并产生膨松的纱线，从而使刚性更高的织物具有更高的可成形性。扇形椭圆形纤维由于其较低的弯曲和扭转刚度，因此使织物的刚度和成型性低，但可压缩性和可扩展性高。聚酯和粘胶纤维的混合往往会降低刚度（弯曲和剪切），但会改善可扩展性和可成型性。

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